Page:The cutters' practical guide to the cutting of ladies' garments.djvu/21

Rh and 3 to 3½ at the front, taking care to adjust all the seams to agree with those to which they are intended to join, making all the parts slightly round at bottom. As will be seen, the back is continued to the full length, about 1 inch being left on either side, as illustrated on diagram, for the formation of side pleats and opening in back; the style of finish most usual for these being the same as for gent's body coats, though sometimes box pleats are placed at the centre of back; when it will be necessary to allow 3½, 7 or 10½ inches according a single, double or treble box pleats are desired, at present, however, these are the exception for this style of jacket. We now pass on to deal with

Draw lines O G, O 23 at right angles, making O 23 half the nett size of seat; measure down from O to 7 7 inches always, and square line across to 7 in the front. Now come in from to 1, 1 inch, and draw line A, G from 1 through 7: come back from 23 to 22¼ ¾ of an inch, and draw line from 22¼ through F and 7 to get the run of the front. Next measure the depth of the body part below waist line at back, sides, and front, and whatever that is, come down from line O, 1, 23 to find the run of the waist seam of the skirt. Now measure the width of the sidebody at bottom, and make A to B of the skirt the same; take out 1 to 1½ inches in a V from B to C, and make C to D the same width as the bottom of the sidepiece. Now measure the width of the forepart after the seams are sewn, or allow for the seams in measuring, and make F to E what it measures. The distance from E to D is taken out in a V, when the skirt will only need plain sewing to the body part. Many ladies at present, however, prefer having the extra quantity fulled on over the hips, after the style usual for gents' body coats, only of course there is very much more fulness. If this latter method is desired, it will of course be necessary to omit the V's B C and D E.

Add half an inch of round at 7, and mark off the length from A to G in accordance with the customer's wishes, making due allowance for the seams. As fashion goes at present, it is customary to arrange the skirt so that it appears level all round, when I G and 22¼, H would be the same, but of course this may be varied at will, as also may the run of skirt in the front, many ladies having them cut away so as to show a much wider opening than our illustration shows.

Flaps are arranged to go on the hips about 3½ inches deep, and generally wide enough to cover the V's, the flap being cut without V's as illustrated on diagram 20. When the skirt is closed at top, the hollow of the waist seam is taken as a guide for the top of the flaps, the loose part being arranged to taste.

With the D.B. Newmarket we introduce the subject of lapels. The easiest way to cut a lapel is to use the front edge as a guide to cut the sewing-to-edge by, and to shape the outside to taste. It will be found very beneficial if the bottom of forepart is sprung out a little below waist line, from the original straight front edge as drawn for S.B., in which case the lapel would overlap at the bottom as per dot and dash line below T. It is very difficult to lay down any definite guide in the matter of lapel, they are of course made narrower at the waist. Both character and style may be infused into a jacket by the outline of these lapels. Seeing then that the outside edge of the lapel is so much a matter of taste, we will only further remark that it is a forepart in minature, all parts intending to be used to fit being cut exactly the same as the forepart it is to go over.

In making up garments with a lapel, it is an advantage to put hooks and eyes at the lapel seam; it steadies the garment in wear, though of course it has the disadvantage of only allowing the garment to be worn buttoned on one side. We will now proceed to give

Draw line O, G, O, C; come down from to 6, 6 inches; go out 1 inch and draw line from through 1; add ½ an inch of round as illustrated, and the back is complete. Now come up from line 0, C, at A whatever the waist seam is followed, drawing a line from bottom of sidebody and bottom of front: in this case the waist seam is hollowed 1 inch. Make from to A the same width as the bottom of the sidebody; take out 1½ or 2 inches in a V, terminating it about 3½ inches down. Make the space from A to B about the same as the width of sidepiece, and take out another 1½ inches; make space from B to 2 the same width as the forepart after the seams are sewn; come up from C to 2, 2 inches, more or less according to the amount of drapery desired at sides. If this is made much more than 2 inches, the amount to be taken out in V's at A B may be reduced. Now finish the waist seam by drawing from A, B to 2 To get the run of the front, mark up from 2 to 4 the same amount as previously come up from C to 2; then take the square, and use point O, 4 as the base by which to draw the run of front at right angles. Arrange the relative length of back and front of skirt to taste and the skirt is complete, with the exception of leaving on down the back a due provision for the style of pleat desired; if the ordinary side pleat is desired, 1 inch will be sufficient. In cutting