Page:The cutters' practical guide to the cutting of ladies' garments.djvu/20

12 Is a piece of cardboard. It will be noticed there is a notch at the bottom of dotted line A; this is placed on the centre line, the point B being also arranged on this line, when the outline is to be marked round as per solid line 1, 2, 3, 4, diagram 10. Now turn the card over to the other side, still with notch A and point B on centre line, and mark as per dot and dash line 5 6 7: the small loop above 1 7 may then be formed by rock of eye, and to complete the bottom of the knot, turn the card upside down, fitting the circle in to the outline 3 4. and mark as from 5 to 6, and the Austrian knot is complete. Full instructions for tying these was given in Part I., so we will not again repeat them, merely remarking that throughout the entire knot the braid should run over and under the whole way.

Represents the piece of card the master tailor referred to used to mark the drop loops, the same as illustrated on diagram 13: a line is drawn in the direction the loop should point, and the top B and the notch at A are both kept on this line, the larger part of this oval being on the outside. Now turn the pattern round so that A B still rests on the line, but with the larger part on the inside. If this course is followed many of the difficulties of braiding will vanish, and what was looked upon as a difficult matter will be very simple.

Illustrates the artillery style of braiding. This is frequently done with a round cord, but the cord is not so easy to manipulate as the braid; the rows of braid should go very narrow at the waist and as broad as possible at the shoulders, often extending right to the shoulder seam. Ball buttons are the correct style of fastening down the front, though of course this is only the ornamental fastening, the real fastening being done by hooks and eyes. The edges are invariably braided with flat mohair braid. The back of the jacket should be trimmed in harmony.

Represents one very good style; strictly speaking, this is the style of back that goes with

But as there are no regulations for ladies' garments, this is often used, as it is very effective and very simple. The military regulation trimming for the Artillery Jacket has a crow's toe at top, and an Austrian knot pointed towards the sideseam.

The braid across this forepart is generally of the tabular make and about ¼ inch wide, the top row reaching to the scye seam and sometimes overlapping it and graduating down narrower to the waist. Further details of this style of front will be found in the description of diagram 5.

This style of braiding is very effective, the braid is the same on the edges and across the front, the ends are finished with a sprat's head, and olivets arranged up each front. The details of this are so clearly brought out in the diagram, that it is not necessary for us to give any elaborate description in the letterpress.

Jackets made in this style are often made with loose-fitting fronts, the braiding showing off rather more to advantage in that style than in close-fitting garments. The braid is generally mohair from ¾to 1 inch wide.

Is a little variation from the Austrian knot; an extra loop is introduced on either side, and as the same instructions given for them will apply, we will not go into further detail, merely calling attention to this as a very popular style of braiding for loose-fitting fronts, the long loops being arranged to fasten over the olivets on either side, as the taste of the wearer may dictate.

The popularity of the Skirted Jacket, at the time we write, is so great, that it may fairly be looked upon as likely to occupy an important place in the standard styles for some years to come, and as there are many variations in the style, we select two of the most popular, and by describing the principles embodied in their production, lay a foundation from which our readers may be able to form any of the various styles which have, or may, become popular.

Illustrates the S. B. style, with neat collar and turn, flaps are placed on the hips to cover the V's on hips.

The system for producing the body part is precisely the same as described for the Jacket, so we refer our readers to that for the upper part, and proceed to deal with the first special features, viz., the run of the waist seam, and though this is largely a matter of taste, it may be as well for us to lay down some definite quantities as guides for the inexperienced. In doing so, it must be borne in mind that the quantities quoted are merely looked upon as guides.

Commencing at the back, then, we come down 2 or 8 inches from the waist line, about 2 inches at the side