Page:The cutters' practical guide to the cutting of ladies' garments.djvu/19

Rh a special study, so that he may give each customer just that outline most suited to her figure, and so bring into prominence those points of beauty which exist in a more or less degree in every figure. Now, although for our own part we like to see the sidebody, sidepiece, and back about the same width on the depth of scye line, as described when dealing with the tight-fitting jacket, yet it does not by any means follow that any other division would be unsatisfactory; so our readers may use their individual taste to the fullest extent so long as they retain the same, or nearly the same, waist suppression; but it will be well to bear in mind that it is always advisable to bring the underarm seam as forward as possible; as, whilst facilitating the fit over the hips, it also keeps the waist at side closer to the figure. What we have said in regard to the variations in the position of the seams applies with equal force all over.

Much that we have said in reference to dia. 1 on this subject will apply with equal force to these garments; such, for instance, as the putting the lining in long over the waist, especially in the back; putting a waist band to keep it firm at back and sides, and so on; whilst the mode of putting in the pockets is as varied for these garments as they are for gents'. Care should be used in puttii g on the collar to keep it easy in the hollow just below F; whilst in the front, just beyond the break, it should be rather tight, as also in sewing round the back, there should be the least degree of tightness, thereby facilitating the fit behind; but, above all things, it is necessary to put it on easy in the hollow, for apart from the fact that when a seam is taken off the gorge at that point, it becomes longer, and in like manner the collar becomes shorter; the neck also rises out of the trunk very decidedly at that part, and requires the gorge to be well stretched. This is more noticeable with short-necked figures, with whom the muscles of the neck come up very suddenly.

Silk facings are often put on the lapels of the D.B. styles, as diagram 2, to come up to the end of the holes, when these garments are made from black Vicunas and Worsteds; and they then make a very stylish garment. The position of the buttons is a frequent source of difficulty to the inexperienced; but it need not be so if they only have the breast line to guide them, when the following simple plan will be found thoroughly reliable: Put the tape on the breast line, and sweep from the eye of the hole once from a point below the level, and again from a point above the level, and where these intersect each other is the proper place to locate the button.

A waistband should invariably be placed at the waist behind, as it not only keeps it steady and prevents it twisting, but it also keeps it close to the waist.

On this Plate we illustrate the various methods of braiding jackets; they are mostly of a military character. Before we deal with each style separately, we shall make a brief reference to the effect the different styles have on the body. Those having the braid running only in a horizontal manner, give the effect of width, which, although frequently very desirable, must not be done at the expense of the length, except in very tall, thin figures. To counteract the shortening tendency of these plain horizontal row, drop loops, rows of eyes, and braid laid on in a vertical direction are introduced. Take, for instance, diagram 13. The braid on the edges introduces one line, the eyes above and below each row of braid across the front introduce two more rows, and the drop loops introduce two more, so that there are five rows of ornaments running in a vertical, as well as five in a horizontal, direction; and as the horizontal rows get narrower at the waist, several effects are produced. Length is added, width is added, and by the emphasis given to the width of the shoulders, the waist appears relatively small.

Illustrates a style of braiding very popular with ladies. A row of flat mohair braid is put all round the edge, and rows of tubular braid from ¼ to ⅜ inch wide are laid across the front. In this diagram each row is terminated with an Austrian knot, a plan which may be varied in the style illustrated by diagram 6, which represents the drop loop for Rifle garments or diagram 7, as used in the army for the artillery and engineers, when sometimes the eyes in the centre are omitted; or the style illustrated on diagram 13 may be used, which is the plan followed for Infantry garments. The braid is always started from the loop end, the finish being arranged under one of the cress overs. Care must be used to prevent the ends of the braid from fraying, the best plan being to wind cotton or thread round the end several times, and so securely fasten it. Loops of braid are invariably left beyond the edge on the one side, to fasten over the olivets or buttons placed on the edge of the other. If this is not done, a very long neck will have to be put to the buttons. A master tailor of the army, stationed at Malta, recently spent a month at our Cutting Academy, and he kindly showed us the methods he adopted to arrange these drop loops and Austrian knots.