Page:The cutters' practical guide to the cutting of ladies' garments.djvu/18

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For several seasons past, loose-fitting fronts have been very much patronised by ladies; indeed, at the present time, there are probably few more popular jackets than the styles illustrated on this page of diagrams. Diagram 2 and figure 12 has a dash and go about it, which recommends it to those who like something a little dressy and stylish. When these jackets were first introduced, they were the source of much worry to even the most experienced ladies' cutters, and it was found that many patterns which produced most perfect fitting tight jackets, were anything but satisfactory when used for loose-fitting fronts; hence it was found that something more was necessary, besides omitting the darts, in order to produce these jackets to perfection. The great difficulty many had to contend with, was tightness at the bottom of the front, below the waist, causing a nasty drag from under the bottom of the arm to stomach; this was soon traced to the front edge being too long, or perhaps, what a good many people would call too crooked. Needless for us to say, this defect was more apparent amongst those cutters who patronise a round front edge, and which we have so often pointed out as wrong in principle; and although it may, and undoubtedly does, produce passable fits, if not overdone, for tight-fitting garments, yet, when applied to loose-fitting fronts, it is a failure; hence it is of the greatest importance that the line drawn from V through 20½ should be quite straight, that being the shortest possible distance between two points, and so producing that shortness of front edge absolutely necessary to balance the foreparts, and cause them to hang gracefully down the fronts. But there are other changes also necessary; for this straightness of the front edge, combined with the darts being omitted, make it far too large round the bottom, and especially over the hips; hence the necessity of taking out more between sidepiece and forepart at waist; from 1½ to 2 inches is the amount we have found to suit the majority of customers, and just letting the forepart and sidepiece meet at the bottom. With these variations from the close-fitting jacket, previously explained we have been able to turn out most successful garments for the majority of ladies; the exception being with those who are very prominent at the bust, when the shortness of the front caused a fulness to appear at the front of scye. With such figures, we found it advisable to take out a small dart from about 2 inches in front of the side at 12¾, and terminating just below the prominence; this had the effect of not only providing a receptacle for the bust, but also made the waist to fit snug at the sides—always a desideratum in loose-fronted jackets. As far as the cutting of this class of jacket is concerned, we think we have said enough to point out the special features to be observed, and the dangers to be avoided, so we will now pass on to give a few hints on the various styles in which these are being worn.

As illustrated on diagram 2 and figure 12 is produced by adding about 2½ inches beyond the breast line all the way through, and carefully arranging the shape at the top to agree with the style of lapel desired; the one indicated is such as we should adopt for Yachting Costumes, or when it is intended to have a collar and turn after the style of gent's Reefers; but inasmuch as this is a matter of taste, and ladies take a wide view of what is taste, there are naturally many variations in this matter of lapels; for instance, many were made up during the past few months, with only one lapel and stand collar, indeed the under forepart was cut away to the breast line, and the lapel on the one side made much heavier than it would otherwise have been, and faced with fur or velvet. As we write, one of the newest styles of these jackets has a roll collar.

The Beatrice, figure 13, diagram 3, is another style which is very popular, it is either finished with a stand or fall collar as may be desired. When made with an ordinary S. B. collar and turn, it is especially suitable for lawn tennis or boating jackets. For this style it is only necessary to add about 1 inch for button stand beyond the breast line, whilst many cut them away from just below point 22½ in order to show about 2 or 3 inches of vest at the waist; thus endless varieties may be produced.

There is just one other style we must notice, as it has had a most unprecedented run, especially in seal-skin, seal plushes, and so on; we refer to the Macbeth, figure 14, diagram 4, which fastens over on the one shoulder, and running off to nothing at the bottom. The easiest way to cut these is to fold the pattern over at the breast line I T, and cut the gorge on the double, and carry the one side as far over the shoulder as thought desirable, generally to within about 1 inch of the scye seam, and then shaping the front edge from this point, either straight or curved, as taste may direct, and letting it just overlap about 1 inch at the bottom. With this style it is customary to cut the under forepart only to reach to the breast line, but this, too, is a matter of taste, and consequently often varied.

The position allotted to the various seams have much to do with the harmony in the general outline of the garment, and it behoves every cutter to make this