Page:The cutters' practical guide to the cutting of ladies' garments.djvu/17

Rh is drawn at right angles from the centre of the space between 7¼ and 8, and 11¼ and 12¼ as a guide to get the run of the seam towards the front, so that the front overlaps from there backward. If our readers have paid attention to the anatomical lessons, they will at once realize the importance of springing out sharply from the waist line downwards, especially at 12¼. The back is squared at right angles to 3, and the run of the sidebody at back is got by drawing a line from 3 through ¾ to the bottom. It will be observed that the sidebody comes a little below the back, which is necessary owing to point 4 being a little lower than 3; the back and sidebody really require to be the same length downwards from 3. The relative length of back and front is quite a matter of taste, and as fashions change so rapidly, we will refrain from laying down any definite rule. The bottom of both sidebodies should be slightly rounded at the bottom, otherwise when the seams are sewn, there will be a point at the seams, and a hollow between, which must be adjusted if the jacket is desired to be satisfactory.

Is the last thing to be arranged previous to cutting, and this must be done in harmony with the style of edge desired. The average for a stitched edge would be 1 inch on the hole side, and 11½ inches on button side: a quarter of an inch more is necessary for a double stitched edge, and a quarter inch less for a bound edge, unless it is a very wide binding. It may be as well to explain why more is allowed on the button side. The breast line as from V to 23½ should represent the meeting edge to edge line, the true centre of the front. The extra half inch on the button side is needed to avoid the under garment showing through the end of the hole. In the event of the garment being desired to hook and eye, it should be cut merely 1 seam (¼ inch) beyond the breast line, whilst for double breasted styles, a varying amount must be left beyond, or a lapel sewn on according to the style desired. But of these we shall deal with presently, so we will now give a few

Use especial care with the neck and waist sections to get them the right size. Let the shoulder be slightly stretched on all three sides, and be careful to avoid getting the collar on tight in the hollow below point F. See that the lining has plenty of surplus length to allow of the bend at the collar seam, indeed, it will be a good plan to always put a pleat in the lining of the shoulders, as is customary for vests. If the lady has prominent breasts, use every possible precaution to avoid getting the front of scye at 12½ full; keep your sleeve rather tight there, putting any fulness there may be in the underside at N, or taking it out with a fish. If thought advisable, put a little wadding at, but it must always be borne in mind, this will have the effect of reducing rather than emphasizing the prominence.

If any padding or wadding is put in the breast, it should be carefully and skilfully done—nicely graded away, and for this purpose we have found horse-hair the most useful, not the horse-hair to be obtained by the yard at most trimming warehouses, but the loose-horse-hair obtainable at the saddlers. Care must of course be taken to secure it firmly, if that is done, it will be found that it can be graded off very much nicer than can be done with wadding or cloth.

The waist section requires very considerable care in making. All the parts should be slightly stretched at the seams and shrunk in the centre as is usual with the sidebody of body coat for men. See that the waist does not make up too large, as some materials are very elastic, and it is difficult to exactly guage the amount to be consumed in making. In some loose materials it will be found advantageous to baste strips of linen to all the parts at the waist, and sew it in with all the seams to prevent it stretching. It is a very good plan to measure up the size of the waist after all the scams are sewn, except the underarm seam, and then adjust the size at that seam.

Snip the button stand at waist and insert a V to enable it to lie smooth on the opposite side. Put all the linings in very long over the waist, as the sharp curve of the body at that part demands it. Always remember that whenever there is a hollow on the body, the lining must be longer than the outside.

A waist band should be made up to the size of waist, and fastened to the centre and sideseams of back; it steadies the garment and keeps it close in to the figure at the back, and also relieves the strain on the waist of jacket. If the garment is S. B. to button through, always arrange the eye of the hole to come on the breast line on the one forepart, and the button on the breast line of the other; otherwise the buttons will not come down the centre of figure. We are frequently asked on which side to put the holes in a lady's jacket. To this Ave can only reply, that there appears to be no universal custom amongst ladies' tailors. There can be no doubt, however, that ladies' are more accustomed to have them on the right side, and by ladies' tailors this is most usually done; and as habit beomes second nature with many, it will be well to consider this matter carefully before putting them in the left side as is occasionally done by some ladies' tailors, and universal with all gent's garments. We shall now proceed to deal with some of the varieties of