Page:The cutters' practical guide to the cutting of ladies' garments.djvu/13

Rh borne in mind, viz., the thickness of the body at that part, for if the shoulders are largely developed in the front, the same or almost the same provision must be made as for square shoulders. Then there is still another feature, viz., that with short-necked figures the thickness of the neck from side to side is more than would be the case with the normal figure, whilst with the long-necked figure the diameter is less. This we account for in the following way: In the short neck the muscles go up from the shoulder to the neck more suddenly, and so increase the diameter from side to side, and vice versa. Hence, the only mode of fixing the correct amount of height of neck in all cases is by direct measure, division of length or width being both erroneous, and will lead the cutter who trusts in them astray.

This may either be done by measuring from the centre of back or the centre of front: either method is reliable, though, for our own pare, we prefer measuring from the centre of front, as it is not affected by any variation in the allowance for making up or ease. But important as is the location of the front of scye—and it is one of the most important in the garment—there is another part which claims an equal share of attention, viz., the bottom, or what is usually termed the depth of scye. This may be done in two ways: either by measuring from waist line upwards, or by getting a true horizontal line round the figure level with the bottom of scye with a tape, as illustrated on Figure 8, or by means of a square. We prefer the latter method, as the run of waist is often out of the true horizontal, and liable to be disturbed by fashion, such as when prominent bustles were worn, the length of waist being shortened behind. We do not consider the one-third of the circumference used in connection with a quantity for the height of neck equal to this direct measurement method, as the arm develops in various ways, and when the muscles develop it forms anything but a circle, and consequently such a method would provide too much length in the back section.

This is made either by suppression, or what is equivalent, drawing in and pressing the fulness away. In practical tailoring there are three relative lengths: the hollow, the straight, and the round; and if we remember the effect of those on the adjoining parts, we shall be materially helped in fitting the various forms. Thus, if we cut a hollow back seam, it will fit very snug down the centre, but as it will be brought to a straight line when on the figure, it will throw fullness over the blades, and if there are no sideseams, fulness round the back of scye. It is well to remember that any deviation from the straight line for either back or front, must be made to provide for prominence or depression, the hollow giving extra room, the straight being normal, and the round producing shortness on all the surrounding parts. Thus, it will be seen, there are no figures that require a round front edge to their garments, as there is a development of breast to be provided for in both male and female figures: though, if darts are not permissable, the round front edge may be cut, but it must always be manipulated back to the straight line if a proper fitting garment is desired. There is one point we must specially call attention to, viz., suppression at one part causes fulness both above and below, and the greater the suppression the greater the fulness, hence the waist must be suppressed with the view of providing for the prominence of blades, breasts, &c. Closely allied to this question of provision for prominence, &c., is

This can only be successfully met by a series of short sectional measures, starting from fixed points and going over those parts where the muscles are likely to develop. In cutting from block patterns, provision may be made for this by the insertion of wedges, but it should be understood that the insertion of the wedge at any part will have a purely local effect, and, indeed, it is in this feature of it that its greatest value consists.

In attitude we have a principle of the greatest importance, for unless the attitude of your customer is duly considered, it will be impossible to produce a fit. Many cutters meet this successfully by the aid of a trained eye; but that takes some time to acquire. We prefer taking such measures as will of themselves indicate the relative lengths of back and front, which really constitute the balance. The attitude of the figure indicates whether they stoop or stand erect, and as every cutter knows what would fit the one would not fit the other, it becomes necessary to make it one of the special points to be observed, regulating in each case the relative lengths of back and front in accordance with the customer's requirements. These few ideas on the principles must suffice, so we now briefly describe the

First, take the size round chest, rather easily, close up to the bottom of the arms on a level with 7, figure 8; next take the waist at 8, tightly; next the hips