Page:The Selkirk mountains (1912).djvu/88

74 on the west. It is a hive-shaped mass entirely snow-covered on its north and east faces; the other faces are steep rock.

First Ascent: By Messrs. Holway, Palmer and Butters in 1909. Route: (1) Reached from Glacier House by the Asulkan Valley and Pass, the Geikie, Dawson and Donkin Glaciers, Donkin Pass'; thence, either by Bishop's Glacier and Deville Névé, keeping north of Mt. Wheeler, or by crossing the north end of the Bishop's Range and ascending Black Glacier to its head and working on to the west arête of Mt. Kilpatrick whence the climb is easy.

Time required: For this route, 3 days if the weather holds good. A camp is made on Mitre Creek Valley below Donkin Pass. All the outfit must be carried on the shoulders.

Route: (2) By the Beaver Valley to the Deville Glacier and Névé.

Time required: About 6 days with ponies and a camp outfit which can be taken to a point opposite Glacier Circle.

View: On the summit of Mt. Kilpatrick you are in the midst of the snow-world of the Selkirks; all around are glaciers and wide snowfields. The peak is immediately above the Battle Glaciers and the eye sweeps their full length. The wonderful maze of hanging glacierettes lining the sides of Battle Creek Valley and clinging to the north face of the Purity Range are seen to advantage. It is a magnificent spectacle and well repays the exertion of the expedition. Three miles distant, Mt. Purity rises, a splendid isolated cone of snow.

Leda Peak—Name: By the Topographical Survey, with reference to Castor and Pollux.

Altitude: 9,133 feet.

Location: The south peak of!Mt. Jove; rises directly above the Asulkan Névé on the west side.

Route: Reached from Glacier most readily from the Asulkan Pass, whence it is an easy ascent of rock and snow. A return can be made by the Asulkan Glacier direct; or by traversing the Swanzy Glacier, Lily Col, and home via the north slopes of Mt. Afton and the Abbott Ridge.

Time required: 4 or 5 hours. One guide is necessary.

View: Excellent views of the Dawson Range. Mt. McBean and the Incomapplenx Valley; northwards, of Asulkan Valley, Sir Donald and Hermit Ranges; westward, Mt. Bonney and the Swanzy and Clarke Glaciers are close at hand.

Lily Glacier and Névé—Name: Some have thought that this so delicate appellation for a river of '"thick-ribbed ice" came from the avalanche lilies (dogtooth violets) which follow the edges of the glaciers. And it is a pretty conceit. But the name was given by W. S. Green in honour of a daughter of the Rev. IT. Swanzy, his fellow-explorer "among the Selkirk Glaciers."

Altitude: 5,500—8,200 feet.

Location: Between Mt. Swanzy on the west, and The Dome, The Rampart and Mt. Afton on the east. One of the chief sources of Loop Brook and a very interesting glacier.

Route: Reached from Glacier via Mt. Abbott, the north slopes of Mt. Afton and a traverse along the slopes of the Rampart. Unless skilled in mountaineering, a guide is necessary.