Page:The Selkirk mountains (1912).djvu/74

60 Dome. A rock climb. Unless skilled in mountaineering, one guide is necessary. (2) A second route is by the Asulkan Valley, Asulkan Glacier and Sapphire Col. Unless skilled in mountaineering one guide is necessary.

Time required: 5 hours by the former route; 4 hours by the latter. The second route offers some good ice-work on the Asulkan Glacier.

View: North and east, Rogers Pass, Sir Donald, the Asulkan Valley and Glacier; south and west, the Valley of the Incomappleux (Fish Creek), Swanzy and Clarke Glaciers and the Swanzy-Bonney Massif.

Donkin Mt.—Name: By W. S. Green, after W. F. Donkiu of the Alpine Club (England) who was killed in the Caucasus during the year Mr. Green made his exploration and survey in the Selkirk Range (1888).

Altitude: 9,694 feet.

Location: On the west side of Donkin Pass; the most westerly peak of the Dawson Range.

First Ascent: By H. W. Topham in 1890. A fine conical peak of easy ascent from the Donkin Pass. Climb: rock and snow.

Route: Reached from Glacier via the Asulkan and Donkin Passes.

Time required: Two long days with one night out at the foot of Dawson Glacier. It can be done more satisfactorily in three days. Camp outfit must be carried on the shoulders. For novices, one guide is necessary.

View: Like Mt. Cheops, owing to its medium height and isolated central position, Mt. Donkin furnishes one of the finest panoramas obtainable. The view commands the Bishop's Range, notably the combination of its two peaks, Augustine and Cyprian, in their likeness to an episcopal mitre; also the Purity Range with a splendid view of the snowy mountain that names the range; and sweeps the valleys of Mitre Creek and Van Horne Brook showing Mt. McBean beyond to advantage. West and north are the Incomappleux Valley, the Bonney Neve and the entire Clarke and Swanzy Glaciers; and immediately east are the Donkin and Dawson Glaciers and Mt. Fox.

Donkin Pass—Name: In relation to Mt. Donkin.

Altitude: 8,556 feet.

Location: 13etween Mt. Donkin and Michel Peak of Mt. Dawson.

Route: The pass on its north side is difficult of ascent owing to an ice-wall and a heavily corniced crest. A traverse to the east side is the safest. The south face presents easy slopes of shale and grass.

First Ascent: By H. W. Topham in 1890.

Donkin Glacier—Name: In relation to Mt. Donkin.

Altitude: 6,700–8,000 feet.

Location: Below Donkin Pass on the north side, and fills the western portion of the donble cirque of the Dawson-Donkin Glaciers. It is much crevassed but easy of ascent.

Route: The same as for Mt. Donkin; from Geikie Glacier,