Page:The Selkirk mountains (1912).djvu/54

42 Location: Easterly of the two highest peaks of the Bishop's Range.

First Ascent: By Prof. E. W. D. Holway, F. K. Butter.s and B Palmer in 1909, without guides. (For account of this ascent see Canadian Journal Vol. II., Xo. 2, p. 70.) It is described as a better rock-climb than Mts. Dawson, Sir Donald or Tupper.

Route: The members of the party crossed the Asulkan and Donkin Passes to Black Glacier, following it up until the first ice-fall on the left side. They then ascended a steep clay bank and reached the rocks above the ice-fall. whence they followed ledges, going up at every opportunity, chiefly over rocks but occasionally crossing ice or snow in the gullies until they reached the eastern end of the final arête. This arête was found extremely narrow, dropping for a great distance on both sides, and quite sensational in places, great gaps occurring, down which they had to climb and then up the other side. In one of these a spare rope had to be left in order to get back. Finally the last gap was crossed and they stood on the summit. An ascent of this peak may possibly be made from Bishop's Glacier on the opposite side of the ridge.

Time required: In either ease, three days are required for the expedition, camping two nights in Mitre Creek Valley below the Bishop's Glacier. Unless skilled mountaineers, one or two guides are necessary, according to the size of the party. When providing for the expedition, it must be remembered that Selkirk weather is very variable and that there may be delay from storms. All provisions and camp-equipment must be carried on the shoulders. Sleeping-bags, a canvas-cover or light silk tent, and condensed food-stuff's are necessary to reduce the weight to a minimum. You are here at the axis of the Selkirk Range and surrounded on all sides by glaciers and snowfields.

View: The view of the Purity Range immediately south, is alone worth the ascent.

Avalanche Mt.—Name: Owing to the numerous avalanches that sweep down the western sides across the railway which traverses along the foot of these slopes through a line of continuous snow-sheds.

Altitude: 9,387 ft.

Location: One of the peaks of the Sir Donald Range, directly above Rogers Pass. Its summit is on the east side.

First Ascent: By Major Rogers and party. 1881.

Route: It is reached from Glacier House via the trail to Cascade Summer House and Avalanche Crest, from whence it is an easy rock-climb. The ascent is made from the small glacier at the base of the peak. For novices one guide is necessary. Time allowed: 4 hours.

View: Mt. Avalanche commands an excellent view of the Beaver River Valley with Bald Mountain and the Prairie Hills rising above its western slopes. Avalanche and Eagle Glaciers lie on the east side of the Sir Donald Ridge, directly below.

Avalanche Crest—A rocky spur of ^It. Avalanche extending southerly. The Cascade Summer House trail leads to its foot. It is an exceptionally fine view-point, and easy of access. From the top one may gaze into the hazy blue distance of the dark Illecillewaet