Page:The Selkirk mountains (1912).djvu/41

Rh Geikie Glacier by a fall of 700 feet. In his two summers of life in the Selkirks he had climbed many peaks, among them Swiss Peak, Rogers Peak, Cougar Peak, Mts. Ursus 5lajor, Avalanche, Cheops, Abbott, Grizzly, Cartier and Mackenzie. He was a general favourite and well known. In the minute-book at Glacier House a friend has entered a tribute to his memory.

1903—The most important ascent of this season was that made by Herr E. Tewes, Bremen, Germany, of Mt. Sir Donald by the north-west arête (a new route) accompanied by the guides Edouard Feuz and Christian Bohren.

1904—This was a ladies' year. The second ascent of Mt. Bonney (the first had been made by W. S. Green in 1888) was accomplished by Miss Henrietta L. Tuzo, previously noted as having made the first ascent by a lady, of Eagle Peak. The third ascent of Mt. Bonney was made a little later by Miss Gertrude E. Benham, of London, England. Miss Tuzo chose the route via Marion Lake trail, Mts. Abbott, Afton and the Lily Glacier, ascending the escarpment of the Swanzy-Bonney Ridge between Mts. Swanzy and Clarke's Peak and following the escarpment over Clarke's Peak to the cairn erected by W. S. Green in 1888. Miss Benham made the ascent via Loop Torrent, following closely in the footsteps of W. S. Green. Guide Christian Bohren accompanied Miss Tuzo and Edouard Feuz accompanied Miss Benham.

The same year Miss Benham made the first ascent by a lady, of Swiss Peak, at the same time making the traverse and first ascents of Fleming Peak and Grant Peak. She was closely followed over the same route by Miss Turzo, to whom belongs the second ascent by a lady, of these three peaks.

Beyond the Asulkan Pass, Miss Benham made the first ascent by a lady, of Mt. Dawson (Hasler Peak). Both made successful ascents of Mt. Sir Donald, making respectively the third and fourth ascents by ladies.

The year further witnessed the record ascent of Mt. Sir Donald by J. Duke Smith, of Boston, who, according to the statement in the minute-book, left the hotel with Christian Bohren at 4.08 a.m. and arrived at the summit at 8.35 a.m. Starting homeward at 9.30 a.m., the hotel was reached at 12.20 p.m.—eight hours and twelve minutes, with fifty minutes spent at the summit. The mountain was in its best condition.

1905—War was carried into Cougar Torrent Valley when Mt. Bagheera was conquered by W. S. Jackson, of Upper Canada College, Toronto, accompanied by Edouard Feuz, .Jr.

1906—The principal feat of the season was the first ascent of Mt. Tupper by Wolfgang Koehler, of Leipzig, with the guides Edouard Feuz, Jr., and Gottfried Feuz (for account see Canadian Alpine Journal, Vol. II., No. I.).

1907—Little of importance was done in the Selkirks, partly owing to the continuous snowfall on the heights. The highest peaks were in bad condition. The only ascent of Mt. Sir Donald this season was by F. W. Freeborn and Jean Parker (the first Canadian lady to climb it) with guides Edouard Feuz Sr. and Jr. Dr. J. W. A. Hickson with Edouard Feuz, Jr., made the first ascent of Mt. McGill—