Page:The Selkirk mountains (1912).djvu/205

Rh toes are cramped they will freeze very easily." This means a broad toe. The uppers should reach two inches above the ankle. Too many nails spoil "the grip" and make the boot too heavy. A few nails under the instep are an advantage. The Swiss guides always have a supply of nails and luiderstand nailing. Mr. Whymper says that it is best to have the nailing "done on the spot," which is good advice if one's shoemaker does not understand the business. Crampons (climbing irons) are good on ice or hard snow, although unless fitting the boot closely, they are only a source of danger. In fitting them on, it is necessary to remember that the straps contract when wet. Concerning the care of climbing boots: Too much grease rots the leather; and out of the climbing season they should be kept in a dry' place.

Concerning the ice-axe: "Use as light an axe as your weight will allow, and see that the pick end is very long, some 8 or 9 inches. This is very important and is of great help when cutting down steep ice-slopes." A brass ring that slides up and down the handle to which may be attached a leather thong or a strong suspender is an improvement on the old-fashioned sling.

To protect the face and neck from sunburn on the snow, zinc ointment is recommended, or some reliable emollient. The rucksack is indispensable.

The best rope is that with the red thread through it, Beale's Alpine rope: 15 or 20 yards are sufficient for two climbers, 30 yards for three, and so on. Wet rope ought to dry slowly and never on rock under a hot sun. When not in use, keep in a dry well-ventilated place.

Rules for the Rope. (Selected from a paper by J. P. Forde in the Canadian Alpine Journal.)  Climbers should be placed at equal distances, except the leader and the next climber who should have more rope. The distances vary to suit the mountain and no hard and fast intervals on the rope can be laid down. See that the rope is properly tied. The "bowline" is recommended for the end men. and the '"noose" for the intermediate. Everyone is responsible for the portion of the rope between himself and the man ahead. When paying out rope to the man ahead, keep it clear of cracks. Keep your portion of the rope away from loose rocks. On rock-faces and dificult traverses, only one man should move at a time, the others being ready to hold him if he slip. Always make use of projecting rocks for belaying pins, after making sure that it is secure. <li>Test the rope occasionally, especially before trusting your weight on it.</li> <li>When a party is moving steadily upward, carry a small loop of the rope in one hand.</li> <li>When making a traverse where a serious slip might occur, do not let the rope get slack.</li> <li>On steep couloirs where there is loose rock, keep as closely together as possible.</li> </ol>