Page:The Selkirk mountains (1912).djvu/111

Rh Route: Reached from Glacier by the Mt. Abbott trail, Abbott Ridge, the north slopes of Mt. Afton and the Lily Col.

Time required: 5 hours. Unless skilled in mountaineering, a guide is necessary.

Climb: Rock, ice and snow. Magnificent views to north-east and south. From the summit of Mt. Swanzy the ascent of Mt. Bonney is simple. Follow the ridge, traversing the south side of Clarke Peak.

Swanzy Glacier—Name: By Messrs. Abbott, Fay and Thompson, in relation to Mt. Swanzv.

Altitude: 6,000—8,200 feet.

Location: On the south side of Lily Col; between Castor, Pollux and Leda on the north-east and the south spur of Mt. Swanzy on the west, and drains to Geikie Creek.

Swiss Peak—Name: Bv Carl Sulzcr of Switzerland.

Altitude: 10.515 feet.

Location: The central sharp peak of Mt. Rogers.

First Ascent: By Carl Sulzer in 1890.

First Ascent by a lady: Gertrude E. Benham in 1904.

Route: From Rogers hut traverse the alps to the forefoot of Swiss Glacier: ascend either the glacier or its south-east moraine; traverse the Swiss Névé to the foot of the peak and climb by the east snow-couloir and east arête.

Time required: From the hut 4½ hours: from Glacier House, 7 hours. But climbers are advised to spend the night at the hut, not necessarily in it. and secure good travelling on the snow before the sun touches it.

Climb: Alps, moraine, snow and rock. The snow-couloir is a troublesome bit owing to iced rocks, but much of it may be avoided by keeping to the rock along the sides. Unless skilled in mountaineering, a guide is necessary. The climb is one of the most desirable in the district and will well repay the effort.

View: Practically the same as from Rogers Peak. (See Rogers Peak.) Herr Sulzer says: 'The day was perfectly clear. As far as the eye could see were innumerable mountain peaks all around. In the southern foreground the ice-girdled central mass of the Selkirks with its northern marking stone, the bold and fascinating Sir Donald, appeared especially beautiful. In the east, beyond the lower Selkirk Peaks, the long row of haughty Rockies lay spread in partly rounded and broken shapes—a scene I shall never forget. Sharply outlined, dark rock masses interchanged with lofty snowtops, all showed clearly and glistened in the farthest distance, where fading, their faint outlines were lost in the horizon. The northern groups showed some particularly high peaks and immense snow and ice-fields. Stately mountain-chains in the west completed the scope."

Swiss Glacier and Névé—Name: By the Topographical Survey in relation to Swiss Peak.

Altitude: 7,000—9,900 feet.

Location: Below Rogers and Swiss Peaks on the south side.

First Ascent: By Carl Sulzer in 1890. The Glacier is drained by a wild and picturesque torrent breaking into falls and cascades