Page:The Selkirk mountains (1912).djvu/105

Rh Selwyn and Hasler Peak of Alt. Dawson; thence, a descent across a short, sharp snow arête where the rope should be used, leads to the foot of the peak of Selwyn at its south-west base: finally a scramble up the southern slopes will bring the climber with little difficulty to the summit.

Time required: Two days, with camp one night at the foot of the moraine. The second day will be a long hard one. It can be done more comfortably in three days, with two nights out. The camp outfit must be carried on the shoulders. For inexperiencd climbers one guide is necessary.

View: Southward there is a fine view of the Déville Névés full length and of the snow peaks along its western side, and, close at hand, of the Bishop's Range and Glacier; eastward, the summit commands the country beyond Beaver River; north-westward, the snowfields and glaciers surrounding Mt. Bonney.

Sifton Mt.—Name: By the Topographical Survey, after the lion. Clifford Sifton, at the time when he was ^Minister of the Interior.

Altitude: 9,643 feet.

Location: A peak of the Hermit Range between Mts. Rogers and Grizzly, situated at the western extremity of the Rogers Amphitheatre.

First Ascent by a Lady: Gertrude E. Benliam in 1904.

Route: From Rogers hut ascend the alps and cross the glacier. From the ice, the route lies up the long arete which leads straight to the summit.

Time required: From the hut, 4 hours; from Glacier House, 7 hours; but it is more convenient to spend the night at the hut or on the mountain side in order to get an early start and good travelling on the snow.

View: Views of the Rogers Pass Basin, the Asulkan Basin, and the Sir Donald Range are very fine; westward, the upper parts of the Valleys of Bear Creek and Cougar Brook are clearly seen; and northward, the valleys of Mountain Creek and its tributaries and the Sir Sandford series of mountains lying beyond.

Sir Donald—Name: By order in Council, after Sir Donald A. Smith, now Lord Strathcona and Mount Royal, for years Canada's High Commissioner to England. Originally named Syndicate Peak by Major Rogers.

Altitude: 10,808 feet.

Location: Highest and most southerly peak of the Sir Donald Range; 2½ miles directly east of Glacier House.

First Ascent by south-west face and south-east arête: By Messrs. Huber and Sulzer of the Swiss Alpine Club, in 1890.

First ascent by southwest and southeast arêtes: By F. Leprince Ringuet and H. Cordes, with guides Christian Hasler and Edouard Feuz, Sr., in 1899.

First Ascent by a lady: Evelyn Berens and her husband, with guides Karl Schluneggcr and Charles Clarke, in 1901, by south-west face and south-east arête.

First Ascent by north-west arête: By E. Tewes, with guides Edouard Feuz., Sr., and Christian Bohren, in 1903.

Routes: There are three distinct routes to the top of this mountain, the most interesting and difficult peak contiguous to Glacier