Page:The Rambler in Mexico.djvu/71

Rh pointed out various remnants of old times. We remarked the site of more than one Indian town, now only indicated by swelling heaps of rubbish or sunken wells, and some singularly shaped rocks, which tradition points out as objects of idolatrous worship in ancient times.

What we were most eager to visit, were certain Indian temples, of which we had heard much, and we were accordingly conducted to a massive ruined church of moderate size, situated a little below Zacualtipan, just at the commencement of the great defile. Its erection is referred to times prior to the conquest, but I have no hesitation in saying, falsely so, like others which we inspected in this valley, in continuing our route. It is strongly built of hewn stone, cemented by lime, and adorned with a species of carved frieze, the very form and drawing of which convinced me that that at least was of Spanish workmanship. And a little further inspection and acquaintance with the undoubted erections of the Aztec and Toltec nations, certified me that the whole structure was of the same origin, though probably built upon the site of a temple or teocallis of the aborigines. In the course of the evening, we inspected another of similar form and character, strikingly situated on a knoll below the elevated village of San Bernardo, two leagues below Zacualtipan, and overlooking the great defile; and to this the same observation applies.

I had an awkward kind of adventure just before our departure from the town. While all unarmed, peaceably sketching alone, in a secluded spot in the vicinity of the church, I was attacked at disadvantage by a savage patriot, either mad or drunk, or both, who from the circumstance of my having been seen more than once in that precise position, in the purlieus of his solitary dwelling, with paper and pencil, was pleased to consider me as a spy, and accordingly followed and accosted me with his naked sabre at my throat. That the fellow was capable of doing me some grievous bodily injury, all for the love of Mejico y liberdad, if not for plunder, in spite of my honest face and intentions, I am convinced; and that I felt very foolish, at being thus taken unaware, without