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110 the Indian speculators, and their families young and old. Thence the cargoes are transported on the back, through the press of rival mules, trooping in from the calzadas; and are deposited in the spacious market place near the university.

The spectacle afforded by this crowded area was a never-failing source of interest—whether our observation was directed to the habits of the Indian, the varied picturesque costumes, the nature of the commodities exposed for sale, or the peculiarities of individual character.

The Mexican and Ottomie Indian possesses very distinct features from his North American brethren. He has a shorter face and thicker lips, and the cheek bone is much more protuberant.

During the early hours, good humour evidently pervaded the press; and the public spirit seemed to harmonize with the freshness of the flowers—of which, as in the days of Cortez, there is here always an inexhaustible profusion; with the bright colours of the fresh-culled fruits and vegetables; and the orderly arrangement of the various piles of calico, hides, earthenware, baskets, ropes, and matting. The toil of their journey, and that of subsequent arrangement being over, the Indian and his family might be seen seated at their morning meal of tortillas and Chile, in peace; and in satisfied expectation of the approach of a customer.

I never failed to remark, however, an exception to this tranquillity, in the person and demeanour of an old, grotesque alguazil, who appeared to have the duty of maintaining order—or rather, of stirring up disorder, in that part of the market which lay opposite to the university. He usually lost his temper at sunrise; and, as far as I could discover, never found it till after sunset—swearing most grievously the livelong day; thumping the cruppers of the mules, and the heads and shoulders of the Indians; overturning hampers, kicking over the baskets, knocking down the piles of merchandise, and putting everything in confusion, in dogged determination to see all go according to rule and square. He seemed