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121 THE PORTRAIT OF A LADY. 121 party went more than once to the British Museum, and to that brighter palace of art which reclaims for antique variety so large an area of a monotonous suhurb ; they spent a morning in the Abbey and went on a penny-steamer to the Tower ; they looked at pictures both in public and private collections, and sat on various occasions beneath the great trees in Kensington -Gardens. Henrietta Stackpole proved to be an indefatigable sight-seer and a more good-natured critic than Ralph had ventured to hope. She had indeed many disappointments, and London at large suffered from her vivid remembrance of many of the cities of her native land ; but she made the best of its dingy peculiarities and only heaved an occasional sigh, and uttered a desultory " Well ! " which led no further and lost itself in retrospect. The truth was that, as she said herself, she was not in her element. " I have not a sympathy with inanimate objects," i>he remarked to Isabel 1 at the National Gallery ; and she continued to suffer from the meagreness of the glimpse that had as yet been vouchsafed to her of the inner life. Landscapes by Turner and Assyrian bulls were a poor substitute for the literary dinner- parties at which she had hoped to meet the genius and renown of Great Britain. " Where are your public men, where are your men and women of intellect 1 ?" she inquired of Ralph, standing in the middle of Trafalgar Square, as if she had supposed this to be a place where she would naturally meet a few. " That's one of them on the top of the column, you say Lord Nelson 1, Was he a lord too 1 Wasn't he high enough, that they had to stick liim a hundred feet in the air 1 That's the past I don't care about the past ; I want to see some of the leading minds of the present. I won't say of the future, because I don't believe much in' your future." Poor Ralph had few leading minds among his acquaintance, and rarely enjoyed the pleasure of button-holding a celebrity ; a state of things which appeared to Miss Stackpole to indicate a deplorable want of enterprise. " If I were on the other side I should call," she said, "and tell the gentleman, whoever he might be, that I had heard a great deal about him and had come to see for myself. But I gather from what you say that this is not the custom here. You seem to have plenty of meaningless customs, and none of those that one really wants. We are in advance, certainly. I suppose I shall have to give up the social side altogether ; " and Henrietta, though she went about with her guide-book and pencil, and wrote a letter to the Interviewer about the Tower. (in which she described the execution of Lady Jane Grey), had a depressing sense of falling below her own standard.