Page:The People of India — a series of photographic illustrations, with descriptive letterpress, of the races and tribes of Hindustan Vol 8.djvu/161

 TAILORS. (445)

AILORS are an exceedingly useful class of artizans common to all India. Some are Mussulmans, especially in the Northern Provinces and Bengal; but the greater portion by far are Hindoos of good rank among the Sudra classes of tile population, and Portuguese. They are private servants as well as keepers of public shops, where ready made garments are sold and orders executed for customers. in private houses the "durzees" position is usually in the outer verandah, where he has a good light, and where he makes or mends the clothes of the family. Expert tailors will make up bonnets, ball dresses, morning dresses, or whatever he is required to do if he has a pattern, and some have even ambition enough to copy a costume from an engraving in any of the fashion papers or books. All plain work, as childrens' clothes, darning, mending, sewing on tapes and buttons, he can execute neatly, and his work, especially stitching, which he does backwards, is often very neat. In all work except the finest lie prefers to use the thread lie twists himself; as the figure on the proper right of the Plate is shown to be doing, which is strong and serviceable; English thread is only used for fine work, as hemming, &c. The native tailor is master of his trade; he knows how to cut out and fit all the gores, gussets, pipings, and bias cut pieces which go to make up a native dress, and which require much care in execution; and he cuts out on economical principles, and fits correctly. We will not say that European clothes are equally well finished, but when a pattern is given, it can be copied, especially if the material be calico. In some localities the native tailors have learned to work sewing machines, both in their public and private capacities, and with success, particularly the Portuguese.

In ancient times there could have been no tailors: only one kind of garment was worn by males and females—the dhoty, or loin cloth, by males; the sari by females. A loin cloth round the waist, and a duplicate thrown round the shoulders, formed a perfectly decent and very elegant costume, from the graceful fall of its drapery. The sari, which consists of oniy one piece, belongs to females,