Page:The People of India — a series of photographic illustrations, with descriptive letterpress, of the races and tribes of Hindustan Vol 4.djvu/98

WEAVERS. improve with wear and washing; while those of the imitations fail sadly The English imitation may be cheaper than the Indian original; but the people know by experience that the original will, in the end, be the most economical. There is a fair rivalry, however, in progress, and room enough for the rivals for many a year to come.

In silk fabrics the Indian weavers, who are for the most Joolaees, fail in finish beside the weavers of Lyons or Spitalfields. Their colours are not so bright or delicate, nor is the work as fine or glossy; but it has one advantage over the European, inasmuch as the colours and texture, stand the test of ordinary washing, which the others do not. There are many kinds of body clothes worn by Hindoos which are of silk only: women's and children's saris, and men's pitamburs, or waist cloths. A Brahmin may not eat m a cotton waist cloth, except it be wet or damp; but he may eat in a dry woollen or silk one. Woollen cloths, therefore, are used by the poorer classes, and silk by those who can afford it. In respect of these fabrics the Indian silk weavers have as yet no competitors or rivals.

There is no question of the very great antiquity of the art of weaving in India. Whether the Aryans brought it with them, as is most probable, or whether they found it existent among the aboriginal classes, some of which were, no doubt, rich and powerful, is a question which can never be decided; but in the book of Menu there are many texts regarding it, the weaver, for instance, who has received ten "palas" of thread is not to increase the weight to more than eleven by rice water. In the Mahabharat, the most ancient epic poem of India, antecedent perhaps to Menu, and for which the Hindoos claim an immense antiquity, we find that, at the great tournament, or passage of aims, at Hastinapoor, the capital of the Aryan race, "all the chieftains of the royal house, and all the ladies of Hastinapoor, were arrayed in many coloured cloths, and garlands of flowers When all was ready, Drona, the preceptor, and Aswatthama entered the area in pure white garments; the young princes also had garments of various colours." And there are many passages of a like nature, with descriptions of flags and banners, in Mr. Wheeler's excellent abstract of the Mahabharat. These are all proofs that there were in those remote times, weavers and woven cloths in India; and from the strictly hereditary character of the occupation, while the form of the garments and manner of wearing them has not changed, it is probable the colours and the fabrics are the same also, or but slightly varied.

The subject of weavers will, however, occur again in the course of these illustrations of the people of India, and will then be resumed.