Page:The New International Encyclopædia 1st ed. v. 19.djvu/727

* TJNIFOEMS. 633 UNIFORMS. Cliarli's and Prinoo Rupert for tlicir bodyfjuards, but it was not definitely adopted as the knglish color until Queen Anne's reign. In 161(3 the infantry wore gray and the drummers scarlet. }?y the close of the seventeenth century nearly the whole of the land forces of Great Britain were uniformed in scarlet or bhu varying in the facings only. Helmets appeareil in 1812 and the red stripe on the trousers in 1834. The idea of facings (q.v.) in military and naval uniforms grew out of the custom of pin- ning back the long coat tails for convenience in action, thus showing the lining of a difTerent color. Epaulets (q.v.) of gold bullion were evolved from the metal shoulder pieces used in armor, and appeared in 1795. In KiflS .lames I. ordered all shipmasters to dress in scarlet cloth, but a regular naval uni- form was not used until 1746. A group of naval ofticcrs who were accustomed to meet at Wells Coffee House, in London, decided to place the question for a dress uniform for the naval ser- vice before the King and .dniiralty. through the Duke of Bedford. The colors suggested were red and blue, the national colors, but the King pre- ferred blue .with white facings, which was adopted. Patterns of these earliest uniforms are to i)e seen at the United Service Institution, London. Inder William IV. the naval colors were blue with red facings, and under Queen Victori.a and King Edward as originally, blue and white. Uniforms were fir.st worn in France by the entire army in the reign of I^ouis XIII., Under Louis XIV. regiments were distinguished by the colors of their colonel. In 1670 Louvois by proclamation made the wearing of uniform com- pulsory in the army, and gave definite instruc- tions as to its details. The infantry were or- dered to wear white coats faced with red. white waistcoats, and white breeches. The officers' uni- forms were distinguished by diflerence in mate- rial and trimmings of gold lace. A small cap was worn with this uniform. The cavalry had similar uniforms, bvit with leather breeches, plumed hats, and high boots. De Choiseul modified these uniforms in color, making the infantry wear white, the cavalry blue, and the dragoons green. Under Louis XVI. the regiments were divided into six classes, distinguished by the color of the facings. With the French Revolution uniforms were simplified, and consisted of long blue coats, breeches, and high gaiters. Powder and queues were pro- hibited, but this order was not strictly enforced. Napoleon attempted, on account of the difficulty and expense of procuring indigo dye. to re--tnre the original white uniforms, but, a substitute for this dye having been found, the blue coat was re- tained, though shortened. A sleeved waistcoat, trouseis, and a shako helmet were added to the uniform. In 181.5 the white uniform was again taken up, but gave way to the blue in 1820. In 1843 the tunic became almost a waistcoat, and i, long gray cloak for protection against cold md wet was brought into use. The trousers were loose and confined by gaiters at the knee: belts were worn round the waist instead of over the shoulder. The dress of the LTnited States Army prescribed in orders has been marked in practice by irregu- lar and unauthorized modifications, this has arisen partly from the American tendency to sacrifice ornament to utility, and to the want of a suitable dress for Held service, in which the troops have been almost constantly cngageil since tlic formation of the Government. During the Revolution it became necessary at times to call upon the inhabitants to contribute cast-off cloth- ing to cover the nakedness of the patriot army; yet ell'orts were made to establish some degree of military uniformity. Thus in 1777 the Com- missioners at Hie Court of France were "directed to use their utmost en<leavors to send, without delay. 80,000 blankets. 40,000 complete suits of clothing for soldiers, of green, blue, anil brown colors, with suitable facings and cloth of the same colors, with trimmings suflicicnt for 40,000 suits more, and 100,000 pairs of stockings fit for soldiers." In 1780 it was announced that '"the difl'erent military ranks should be distinguished from each other" — "major-general to wear a blue coat with buff facings, two epaulets with two stars upon eacli" and "a black and white feather in the hat; brigadier-general, the same as major-general, with one star: captains one epaulet on the right shoul- der and lieutenants one on the left shoulder; staflT oflicers to be distinguished bj- hat feathers of va- rious colors." In 1782 it was ordered "that the uniform of the American cavalry and infantry shall in future be blue ground with red facings and white linings and buttons." The close of the Revolution found the troops, generally, in a condition as to uniform not unlike Falstaff's recruits. In 179+ the green coat of the cavalry was changed from white to black facings, a leather helmet with black horse-hair plume, and leather breeches. In 1802 .TetTerson ordered the French leather cap with a strip of bear-skin on the top; officers of artillery wore gold and of in- fantry silver epaulets; the coat was a cutaway showing the waistcoat ; the infantry wore double and the cavalry and artillery single cross belts; the gorget worn during the Revolution was re- placed b.v a single oval brass plate on the belt. Prior to 1801 the hair was worn tied in queues, but in that year General Wilkin.son ordered the hair cut short ; the length of whiskers was limited to the bottom of the ear and beards were not allowed until 1853. In 1808 general officers were required to wear single-breasted coats, with very high collars embroidered in gold. In 1810 all coats were single-breasted without facings, and there was worn that remarkable head-dress, the civilian 'silk liat' with a pompon prescribed, which had but a short life. In 1812 the changes were the abolition of the sash, boots for all mounted ofi'ucrs ; in 1814 the cocked hat was succeeded by the black leather bell-crowned shako of the French Army; on social occasions, knee- breeches and shoes were permitted with yellow knee-buckles. In 1821 chapeau.x bras were ordered for all but company officers, who continued to wear the bell-crowned cap; captains wore ,a chevron above the elbow on each arm; subalterns, one below the elbow. In 1825 a blue cloth shako or high forage cap was prescribed, each arm of service being distinguished by the color of the pompon; light artillery, yellow with red top: light in- fantry, white with red top. In 1835 colored facings were revived; general officers had double breasted coats with lapel.s, with buff facings. In