Page:The New International Encyclopædia 1st ed. v. 09.djvu/506

* HAIRDKESSING. 454 HAIRLESS DOG. 1750 (England) the seventeenth century the tall headdresses of lace anl starched cambric begin to come in. but these are mere modillcations of the veil, and the hair is not very elaborately dressed, being grace- fully combined with the loose cap which covers the back of the head and arranged in ringlets around tlic forehead and cheeks, while the stiff, upright, fan-like plaits of the 'tower' tend rather to elongate the head and increase the apparent stature than to form in themselves a mere head- dress. In the reign of Louis XV., with all the fantastic elaboration of cos- tume, the enormous panier or expanded skirt, the loose sleeves and collar and the rest, the head is generally dressed very simply and it is obviously tjie purpose of the whole toilet to make the head seem very small in proportion. With the close of this reign and th'? beginning of the reign of Louis XVL the return is gradual to more fantastic forms, and by 1750 a huge edifice of curls stiffened rtith wire, as well as hair- cloth and the like, was arranged to carry a little cap or hat entirely removed from the scalp and adorned with feathers and flowers. It is probable that hairdressing in the proper sense has never been so rich and fantastical as at this time. As the reign of Louis XVI. drew on toward the Revolution this headdress of women grew still more fantastic, and we read of one in which a model of a ship of war was carried in the place of the hat upon this structure of curls and crinoline. These extravagances were grad- ually abated, and in the nineteenth century the hairdressing of men w^is much less elaborate, as the hair was uniformly worn short. In the first part of the century women dressed their hair very simply, letting it fall at the sides in a series of ringlets, and gathering it around the back of the head with a ribbon. Somewhat later the side curls were done away with, and the hair was arranged on the top of the head with elaborate and fantastic headdresses and much use of false hair. Chiqnon was the word used to describe the hair when it was dressed in a large roll, especially when it was arranged over a cushion, or other support. From about 18.50 curls again became popular for a time, and since their dis- use no marked innovation has been introduced in the matter of hairdressing. Consult: Viller- mont, Histoirc rfc la coiffure fhniniite (Paris, 1892), a most comprehensive treatment of the subject; Child, IT'n/i/j/rs (nirl Crisping Pins (New York. 1895). a popular historical sketch of hair- dressing: Wollensack, Der Damenfriseur (Stutt- gart. 1897). HAIB-DYE. A substance employed for chang- ing the natural color of the hair to a pre- ferred one, and for hiding the approaches of age as indicated by the presence of gray hairs. Usual methods consist in washing the hair with a solu- tion of some metallic salt known to have the effect of darkening its color. These are the salts or oxides of silver, mercury, lead, and bismuth. Peroxide of hydrogen is used to produce a golden tint. The most perfect mode of dyeing the hair, however, is that of previously preparing it by a complete soaking with a solution of sulphide of potassium. The strength of this solution must depend on the depth of tint intended to be given; the stronger the solution the darker the color will be. When thorouglily wetted the hair is allowed to dry partially: and while still damp it is to be again thoroughly wetted with a solution of nitrate of silver, also proportioned in strength by the same rule as in the case of the solution first applied. This makes a ver.v permanent dye, which only requires renewing as the new growth of hair becomes conspicuous. The fashion of dye- ing the hair is very ancient, and belongs as much to savage as to civilized nations, but in the case of the former vegetable dyes have been ehieily used ; the ladies of China and other Eastern coun- tries also resort to the same, the juice of the petals of Hibiscun Triuiiiim and probably other s];ecies of hibiscus being in general use with them. JIany hair-dyes cause disease: some kill the hair, and it assumes the appearance of mouse-fur. The practice is rarely justifiable, and almost in- variably results in a loss of the esteem and re- spect of others. The detection of stained hair is sometimes an object of medico-legal investigation. Lead may be detected by boiling the hair in dilute nitric acid, and then applying the tests for lead (q.v. ) to the acid solution : while the presence of silver may be shown by digesting the hair in dilute hy- drochloric acid or chlorine water, when the result- ing chloride of silver may be dissolved out with a solution of ammonia, and submitted to the ordinary tests for silver (q.v.). HAIB-EEL. See H.irworm. HAIR-GRASS (so called from the slender form ). A genus of grasses, the members of which have loosely panicled flowers, and two imeqtial glumes which contain two perfect florets. The species are natives of temperate and cold climates. The tufted hair-grass, or turfy hair- grass {Deschampsia cwspitosa), common in most pastures and meadows of Middle and Northern Europe, is a beautiful grass when in flower, but forms coarse tufts two to four feet high. It has very rough leaves, which, if drawn quickly across the hand, inflict considerable wounds, whence the plant sometimes receives the name of 'cutting grass.' If other herbage is within reach, cattle reject it. It is sometimes used for thatching ricks of hay or grain, and in some places for making mats. Soils upon which it grows luxu- riantly usually need draining. It is sometimes tolerated, in order to add to the bulk of marsh or bog hay, but is carefully eradicated wherever agricultural improvements take place. For its extirpation, drainage is requisite above all things: but the digging out of the tufts is also practiced, and other grasses are sown instead. This grass is, however, sometimes sown to form cover for game, particularly hares: and in marshy situations, for snipes and wild fowl. It is the 'windlestrae' of the Scotch. HAIRLESS DOG. Races of dogs whose skins are almost completely devoid of hair have been known since ancient times, and in widely sep- arated parts of the world. The Chinese have a varietv which they cook and eat as a delicacy. This Oriental hairless dog is of a small grey- hound-terrier type, mostly entirely destitute of hair. One variety has a few straggling hairs on