Page:The New International Encyclopædia 1st ed. v. 06.djvu/530

* DRESS REFORM. 460 BREVET. cnusinfr iiiifro liioal ilffuriiiities; and the face-veil, that jnolilio source of oi-iilar troubles. Systems of rational dress liavc been devised ns a result of this movement. In the United States, Jlrs. Anna .lenness-Miller became the most widely known exponent of a system eora- bininf; a due regard for hygiene with some regard for beauty and for •■ancient prejudices. In Kngland. l,ady Ilarberton. i)resident of the ]iational Dress Association, became the recog- nized leader of the movement. Her system dif- fers greatly from that of Mrs. .Tcnncss-Miller, for she advocates a modification of the Turkish trouser costume, clothing her servants in it. In England there are also a National Health Dress Association and a National Funeral and Mourn- ing Reform Association. At the World's Fair in Chicago in 1892 a Dress Reform Congress was held, and new life was infused into the cause. So many cities or- ganizeil Rainy-Day Clubs, with members pledged to wear short skirts in sloppy weather, that the rainy-day skirt is now as familiar an object of the fashion-plate and of commerce as the pelisse and the dolman once were. In Germany the first definite effort of modern times against unhygienic clothing for women was made under the auspices of the Crown Prin- cess of Saxony in 1S73. At her suggestion Dr. Max '. Pettenkofer, professor of hygiene at the University of Munich, delivered a course of lectiires on the subject which aroused some pub- lic interest. Almost at the same time Dr. .(aeger, of Stuttgart, inaugurated his crusade against all forms of clothing not woolen. Tlic chief articles in his creed were the necessity for warmth about the middle of the body and the ])revention of accumulations of fat and water. Wool, on account of its heating and absorbing qialities. he held to conduce toward this end. There has been no widespread movement else- where on the Continent in favor of a more ra- tional style of dress for women. There has been ))raclically no legislation anywhere on the sub- ject. A minister of e<lu(atiiiii in Riissia. in the last decade of the nineteenth century, attempted to prohibit the wearing of corsets by girl stu- dents under a certain age. but this piece of sump- tuary legislation proved impossible. The general participation of women in outdoor sports has proliably done as nnich for the cause of dress reform as the conventions and agitation of the past — unless, indeed, all that agitation n;ade the jiarticipation possible. Outdoor ath- letics, however, demanding short skirts, ample breathing space, light-weight but warm clothing, and the possibility of unhampered movements, and making conventional the attire which i)ermits all these, is undoubtedly the strongest ally which dress reform has ever had. Consult: Woolson. Dress Reform (Boston, 1874) : Bloomer, The Jjife atid Wrilinns of Amelia lilonmrr (Boston. 18!).5) : Ciodwin. Dress niirf Its Ifelntioti to Health and riimale (London. 1884): llaweis. The Art of Dress (London, 1881). DRESS SHIP. A nautical term for orna- niiiiiiiiy ;i -lii]) with Hags. It is ustnilly done on national holidays, on the ortasion of some par- ticular fete or celebration, or in honor of some distinguished visitor, or as a nuirk of courtesy toward foreign nations when their own ships are tiressed. In its sini])lest form it consists in having the national ccdors at the mastheads and at the peak (head of the spanker gall) or color-stalV. and hoisting the jack at its owu stair in the bow. To full-dress ships additional Hags are hoisted. These consist of the llags of the signal code. (See Sicx.vLS, M.^BIXE.) In the case of naval vessels the flags of the na-y sigiml c6de and of the international sigiuil code are both used. The ordinary plan is to have these llags arranged in a line from the water forward (a few are on a weighted line hanging underneath the llying-jib boom) up along the line of the stays, then between the mastheads to the jH-ak of the galf. and thence over the stern. This is called dressing ship rain- hoir fashion. In addition the national colors are hoisted at the niastheails and aft. and jack for- ward, as before. Should the dressing be a cour- tesy to a foreign government, the colors of that nation are hoisted at the niainma>t-head. N'essels having liut one mast usually bring the llags past the smoke-pipes aft to the stern in two lines, Xo national colors are u>ed in dressing ship excejit at the mainmast-head, as already mentioned, as it would 1h> considered dis- courteous to exhibit one and not another, or to place one in an inferior jiosiiion to that of another, and all could not be given positions of honor. Merchant ships frequently, and men-of- war occasionally, dress ship by arranging the lines of flags on each mast fron the masthead to the water, following the extremities of the yard-arms. DREtrX, dre. The capital of an arron- disst'uient in the Department of Eure-et-Loir, France, on the l!lai~c. .il miles west of Paris (Map: France. H li I . The ))rincii>al buildings are the Church of Saint Pierre, a fine unfinished Cothic structure of the period from the thirteenth to the fifteenth century, a splendid town hall, dating from the sixteenth century, the Doric mor- tuary Cha])elle Saint Louis of the ("trleans family, and the ruins of the ancient castle of the counts de Dreux. Dreux has extensive manufactures of coarse cloth, serge, leather, and glass, with a trade in sheep and cattle. Population, in 1901, 91)97. Dreux was an important tnwii of the ancient Gauls, and was called Durocassis or Droc;e by the Romans. It gave its name to a famous line of counts which became extinct in 1.'178. It was the scene on December 19. I.'i02, of the first great battle in the religious wars of France, when the Catholics defeated the Hugue- nots and took their leader, the Prince of Condf, prisoner. In 1870 it was taken by the (iermans. DREVET, dre-vft'. A family of French en- gravers. PiEitRE ( lf>f>.'!-173S) was born near Lyons, studied at Lyons, and then went to Paris, where he entered the studio of tJerard Auilran. In l(>9li he was made engraver to the King, and in 1707 became an .cademician. Dre- vet's best work was done after portraits by Hyacinthe Rigaud. In his delicate gradation of tones and management of detail, he is hardly stirpassed by any engraver of his ilay. He left 125 plates. Among his pupils was his son Pierre Imbert (1097-17.39), who. when Init twenty-one years old. engraved the ])ortrait of P.ossuet after Rigaud. whiih in every sense is a masterpiece. He surpassed hi~ father in grace and precision, and in his use of light and shade