Page:The New International Encyclopædia 1st ed. v. 05.djvu/548

* COSTUME. 470 COSTUME. ration. It is considered a symbol of priestly jurisdiction, ii^ which sense the Pope wears it constantly, even when not official ing. It is worn as a rule in the administration of all the sacra- CHA8UBLE, MODERN FORM. ments. At mass the priest wears it crossed over his breast, and the deacon over his left shoulder: at other times it is worn hanging straight down. The earliest truces of its use in the West as a sacerdotal vestment are found in Spain, where the Council of Braga (5<!3) speaks of the orarinm as worn by deacons, and the Fourth Council of Toledo mentions it as a vestment of bishops, priests, and deacons. The name of stole (Gk. crnXii) is properly applied to an enveloping gar- ment such as was commonly worn by women in ancient Rome; and therefore the earlier use of the word in the Greek ecclesiastical writers must not be taken as applying to what is now called a stole; orurium, however, in later Latin, meant a handkerchief, sometimes worn as a scarf. The employment of this word suggests that the stole may have been originally a prac- tical appendage of linen, designed for wiping the face during the service. The maniple is similar to Ji shorter stole, worn pendent from the left wrist alike by priest, deacon, and sub- deacon at mass. Its origin was very possibly similar to that suggested for the stole — though a symbolical meaning has been found for it as typifying the cords with which Christ was bound before His passion. The alh is a close-fitting garment of plain white linen reaching to the feet, though the lower part is nowadays often made of lace, and sometimes pieces of embroidery called apparels are sewed on it in four places. Originally it was probably nothing more than the ordinary tunic of Greek and Roman costvime. It is confined around the waist by a white linen girdle. The amice is a piece of fine linen, oblong in shape, which the priest rests for a moment on his head, and then spreads on his slioulders, tying it by strings in front. It originally covered the head, and to this day, in the Franciscan and Doiiiiuican rites, which have preserved certain traditioiuil peculiarities, the jiriest wears it in that position until he reaches tlie altar. It is supposed to symbolize the hel- met of salvation. The hundx were worn by French ecclesiastics, even with street costume, and until recently very generally in Protestant pulpits, have been supposed to be a relic of the amice, but are more probably from the ruff or baud of general si.xteenth-ccntury costume, which was formally prescribed by Queen Elizabeth to English clergymen. The special vestments of the deacon and subdeacon are the dalmutic and luiiicle, which differ very slightly, both being close-fitting vestments of the same material as the chasuble, reaching to the knees and with tight sleeves. The color of all vestments seems to have been white at the first. Even the pseudo-Aleuin ( tenth or eleventh centun- ) knows of no other, with one or two minor exceptions. Innocent III. (Pope 1198-1216) is the first to mention the use of four colors, naming black instead of the modern violet, w^hich he regards as merely a variant of black. The modem usage prescribes ichitc for the feasts of our Lord, of virgins who were not martyrs, and of confessors: red (the color of fire and of blood ) for the feast of Pentecost and of all martyrs; the mourning violet for the season of .dvent and from Septua- gesinia to Easter: and green (the color of hope) for ferial or ordinary days. Blaek is worn on Good Friday and in services for the dead. This covers the general rule : space will not allow the details of minor exceptions. Cloth of gold is supposed to take the place of white, red, or green. Episcopal. The vestments officially worn by a bishoj) in the exercise of his functions are numerous and partly general, partly peculiar to his oflice. A bishop fully vested for celebrating solemn mass wears (over a purple cassock or a black one with red buttons) amice, alb, girdle, stole, maniple, tunicle. dalmatic, chasuble, and mitre, and carries his pastoral staff' in his hand. The ring and pectoral cross which he wears at other times must also be included, as must the buskins or sandals and the gloves, which com- plete the pontifical attire. There is also the rireminl reil, an embroidered cloth which is spread over his knees when he sits during the service. In other functions, such as confirma- tion, he wears cope and mitre, with a stole for the administration of the sacraments: but if lie wishes to administer e.g. confirmation less solemnly, he may wear simjily the rochet. The mitre is the principal ornament peculiar to the episcopal office. It is a head-dress w'orn in sol- enm services by bishops and by certain abbots who preside over specially distinguished monas- teries known as 'mitred' abbeys. It may be de- scribed as a tall, tongue-shaped cap, terminating in a twofold point, which is supposed to sym- bolize the cloven tongues in the ^form of which the Holy Ghost came upon the Apostles. Two mitres are worn in pontifical functions: one called the precious or costly mitre, the other of plainer material and ornament. The pastoral staff or erozier in the case of bishops resembles a shepherd's crook, and is given to them at their consecration as a symbol of the authority with which they are to rule their flocks. An arch- bishop's pastoral staff does not differ from a bishop's: but he sometimsks has carried in front