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* COSTUME. 469 COSTUME. Ancient Costume. — Assyrian: Layard, J/o)iM- ineyits of Nineveh, 100 plates (Loudon, 1850) ; Botta, Letters on the Oiscoieries at Xiiieceh, trans, by Tobin (London, 1850). Egyptian: Wilkinson, M(i)iiiers and Customs of the Ancient EilUjitians (London, 1847). tireek and Konian: Hope. Costume of the Ancients (London, 1809; new ed.. with 340 plates. 1841): Evans, Chap- ters on Greek Dress i London, 189o). Modern Costume. — Eastern: Lane. Account of the Manners and Customs of the Modern Egyp- tians, ed. by Lane-Poole (London, 1871): the article "Dress," fully illustrated, in Hughes, Diciionury of Islam (London, 1885) : Watson, Textile Manufactures and Costumes of the People of India (London, 1808), with numerous colored plates ; Audley and Bowes. Keraniic Art of Japan ( Liverjjool. 1875-80). European Countries: Hefner-Alteneck. Trachten, Kunstn-erke, und fUriilhschaften rom friihen Mitlelalter bis Ende des ISteu -lahrhunderts (2d ed., 10 vols., Frank- fort. 1S79-80) ; Falke. Kostiimyeschichte der Kulturriilker. 377 illustrations (Stuttgart. 1882) : Plauclio. Cyclopwdia of Costume (London, 187(i- 79) ; Lacroi.x. Manners, Customs, and Dress of the Middle Afics and the Renaissance (London, 18771 ; id.,' The Eighteenth Century, Us Institu- tions, Customs, Costumes (London. 1887) ; Bon- nard and Mercuri. Costumes historii/ucs des Xlle, A7//e, XlVe ff Jle sicde.s, 200 plates (Paris, 181171: Clievignard and Duplessis. Costumes historiques des XVI e, XT/7e, et XVIII » siecles (2 vols.. 150 plates, Paris. 18G7): Viollet-le- Due, Dictinnnaire raisonne du mohilier fran- iais, vols. iii. and iv. (Paris. 1872-73) ; Jacque- min, Iconoyraphie gcnerale et mcthodique du costume du /T e au XIXe siecle, 315-1815 (Paris, 1876), a large folio of 200 elaborate plates, with supplement (Paris, n. d. ) of 80 more; Strutt, Regal and Ecclesiastical Antiqui- ties of Great Britain, 72 plates (London, 1842) ; M'lan and Logan, Clans of the i'Scottish High- lands (2 vols., 72 plates, London, 1857); Planche. History of British Costume (London. 1874) ; Hill, History of English Dress (London, 1900); Fairholt, Costume in England, Bohn's Library (London, 1885), a small but trust- worthy handbook. For the American aborigines: Dellenbaugh, Xorth Atnericans of Yesterday (New York. 1901) ; for the English colonies in America: Earle, Costume of Colonial Times (Xew York, 1895). Books on decorative art often deal with parts of costumes, and collections of engravings, his- torically arranged, like Hirth, Kulturgeschicht- liches Bilderhuch aus drei Jahrhundcrtcn (Leip- zig, 1895). as well as prints from the engravings of Diirer. Collot. Hogartli. and other realists, which are often to be had in photographic repro- duction. COSTUME, Ecclesiastical. The dress worn by ministers of religion as such, in contradis- tinction to the dress of ordinary life in different lands and periods. It may best be treated under two heads, the costume worn by the clergy in the exercise of their ptiblic functions, and that which constitutes the distinctive dress or habit of the various religious orders and communities. OFFICIAL COSTUME. Under the .Jewish dispensation, the costumes of the officiating priests and Levites. like every- lliing else pertaining to the divine worship, was minutely prescribed and rigidly observed through centuries. It seems, liowever. clearly established that in the earliest Christian centuries no otiier dress was worn by the olliciating clergy than the ordinary costume of their locality. o quota- tion can w adduced from any author of the (irst live centuries alluding to any distinctive vest- ment. In the Middle Ages a theory was held that the vestments then in use were directly de- rived from the Jewi.sh ceremonial: but so early as the middle of the ninth century Walafrid Strabo (see Walafrid) clearly affirms that Cliristian priests in the early centuries offici- ated in the dress of common life. In this, as in s,"> many other particulars of ritual, the delay in establishing elaborate and splendid observances may be attributed largely to the state of obscu- rity and proscription in which the Church lived until the time of Constantine. Special garments were sometimes set apart for use in public wor- ship, of the same shape l)ul of costlier material. The use of vestments since the establishment of a formal system must be considered chiefly under the usage of the Roman Catholic Church, which has regulated them most dclinitel.y and elaborately. They may be treated under three heads — sacrificial, episcopal, and general. Sacrificial. The chasuble is the principal vestment regarded as strictly sacerdotal or sac- rificial. It was originally an ample round mantle falling over the arms, but this, while CHASUBLE, OLDEU FORM. a far more picturesque vestment than the modern 'fiddle-back,' was found practically so inconven- ient that in the si.vteenth and seventeenth cen- turies it was cut away more and more, until the arms were left entirely free. The change in form may best be seen from tlie accompanying illustrations. Traces of its use as a distinctively ecclesiastical ve.stment are found as early as the first half of the sixth century, and the Fourth Council of Toledo (633) expressly mentions it as such. Its use seems not to have been at first confined to priests: and even to this day the deacon and subdeacon at solemn mass in Advent and Lent (except on Gaudete and hectare Sun- days) Avear folded chasubles, which, however, I hey lay aside when they sing the Epistle and Gospel. Chasubles are also sometimes worn by canons and other dignitaries simply present in choir at a pontifical mass. In most Western countries a large cross is embroidered on the back : in Italy, usually on the front. The stole is a narrow strip of the same material as the chasuble, with at least one cross embroidered on it — generallv three, aiid other elaborate deco-