Page:The Lady's Book Vol. I.pdf/172

156 EMBROIDERY. EMBROIDERY.

THE outer edge, and the outline of the separate parts of the leaf, (Fig. 8), comprising a variety of stitches, are run round: the right hand edge of the leaf is composed, alternately, of feather stich, and a pattern worked, with glazed cotton, in double button hole stitch, when two stitches are taken, side by side: then an equal space is left, and two more are taken; and thus to the end. The next row is formed by placing similar stitches under the alternate spaces left above, taking in, each time, the threads which run between each pair of stiches. The parts (opposite a) are done in half herring bone stitch, the cross way of the muslin; four threads being taken on the needle at a time. In forming the second, and the succeeding rows, the needle passes through the lower side of the first row of apertures. -The ground (b) is composed of a series of lines, each formed by drawing together, and sewing over very closely with fine thread, six threads of the muslin. Square spots are formed in the spaces, by sewing, in glazed cotton, over eight of the cross threads; passing the needle, alternately, over the first four, and under the second four. The large rosette (c) is worked in feather stitch. All the other stitches used in this leaf are described in the succeeding flowers. The cup (a) of the fancy flower, (Fig 9), is done in feather stitch.-The centre is a series of eyelet holes, formed by passing the needle twice through the same hole; then repeating the same process at the distance of four threads; and so, in succession, to the end of the row. The second row is formed at the spaces between the holes of the first row, with four threads between each, as before, so that the holes of each row are perfected in the following row. The part (b) is done in half herring bone stitch, leaving four threads of the muslin between each row; (c) is formed by drawing together and sewing over tightly, four threads of the muslin between each row; (d) is worked in double buttonhole stitch; (e) is the same as the centre, with spots in satin stitch.

Pictoral, or Coloured Embroidery, is similar in some respects, to the ancient Tapestry; although it is generally worked on a smaller scale, and is rather different in practice. It comprehends the admired productions of the needle in coloured Embroidery, with worsteds and silks of various hues, and is applied to the imitation of paintings; comprising all the varieties of landscape, groups of animals, historical subjects, fruits, flowers, birds, shells, & c. Its effect is very brilliant if it be well executed, and judgment and taste be displayed in the selection of the various shades of colour; it is, in fact, ”the soul and sentiment of the art.”

The fine twisted worsted, called crewel, and both twisted and flos silks, are employed in coloured Embroidery. Silk is principally used for flowers, birds and butterflies, and is worked on a silk or satin ground. The latter is by far the richest in appearance; and nothing, in this art, can have a more splendid effect than a well arranged group of flowers, embroidered in twisted silks on black satin. A talent for painting is of material advantage in this delightful pursuit; the variety and delicacy of the tints giving ample scope to the genius of the embroideress.

The subjects worked in crewels, consist of animals, landscapes, and figures, on fine white holland for large designs, and on fine white silk, or satin, for small ones. Silks are rarely used in the same pieces with worsteds, except for the purpose of representing water, which should be worked in flos silk of pale greyish shades. The holland, or silk, on which the subject is to be worked, must be first strained tightly over a wooden frame, and secured with small tacks at the back. The design is then to be sketched in pencil, and coloured in water colours, rubbed up with gum water, as a guide to the colours and shades to be selected in the progress of the work. It is, however, proper to observe, that frames, strained for use, and with subjects drawn and coloured on the holland, or silk, may be purchased at many of the fancy shops.

The features of the face, the hair, and all flesh parts, on a silk or satin ground, are usually finished in colours by the artist, and left untouched in the Embroidery.

One kind of stitch only is used in this work; it resembles the thread of satin. Having tied a knot at its end, the worsted is first brought from the under side of the cloth to its surface; then (in working a sky, earth, grass, or water, drapery, or any other plain subject), the needle is passed back again, from the upper side, at about half an inch distance, more or less, in proportion to the size of the subject. It is again brought up, at about half way distance from the first point; the stitch reaching about as far beyond the second. The stitches are taken the long way of the figure or subject, ranging in parallel lines, and of unequal lengths, in order more completely to cover the ground. In drapery, the stitches should be taken in the same direction as the threads, or grain, would naturally fall. Leaves of trees are worked, for distant effect, in short stitches, cross-