Page:The Journal of the Indian Archipelago and Eastern Asia (IA journalindianar00loga).pdf/335

 of the creek, the smoothness of its water, the stillness that prevailed, the absolute want of all living things and all signs and sounds of life, and the impression that from its situation it was not frequented by boats, gave to it a character of the most perfect solitude. Whilst enjoying the full influence of this character, a bend of the creek suddenly broke the spell by disclosing another reach in which were two boats. It was soon renewed and redoubled as we neared them and the steersman declared they were wild men, and cautioned us to avoid doing anything to frighten them. They were fit accompaniments of such a scene. When they saw us they paddled hastily to the side and apparently sought to screen themselves from view by the mangroves, but we were too close upon them to admit of their doing so. As the evening was falling and I was desirous of reaching the foot of Gunong Baú by daylight, we did not stop, and I had therefore no opportunity of examining or conversing with them. Their appearance however is too wild and remarkable to require more than a moment's look to impress itself on the mind. One expression was strongly stamped on their countenances, that of a dull blank stupidity almost idiotical in its excess animated for the time by the startled and frightened look with which they gazed at us. Their hair hung over their shoulders in a tangled mass of a dry dirty red. In each boat, a woman naked to below the waist, held the helm oar, and a man paddled. There were also two lads; and the same idiotical expression was so deeply stamped on the face of each, as at once to reveal a life so miserably contracted as to exclude all that social expansiveness of individual nature which produces a free growth of mind and a wide range of ideas. Compared with these wild denizens of lonely creeks my unlettered and ignorant Malays and Báwiáns assumed a high rank in the scale of humanity. The contrast between them and the Malay in particular, a native of Johore like themselves, was so marked as to render it in a high degree difficult to account for the difference if both are of the same stock. The Malay bold, sociable, talkative, intelligent, and even possessing a certain peculiar refinement and sense of honour. The orang utan, although speaking the same language, idiotically stupid and in habits liker wild animals than men, shunning all intercourse that can possibly be avoided with the rest of mankind, and apparently having no social feeling amongst