Page:The Industrial Arts of India.djvu/207

Rh Green, of all shades from very dark to very light, dyed with indigo, and various yellow dyes, asbarg, narsingar, &c. Pea-green [angurí] is a very favorite color, when woven with a scarlet stripe.

Brown, of several shades, "sandalwood color" [sandali], "almond color" [badami], &c., chiefly used on thread for embroidery.

Grey, produced by sulphate of iron and galls.

Black, dyed with indigo, &c.

Madder is not employed in dyeing silk, but the use of the aniline dyes is now extensive.

The silk cloth of the Panjab is very thick and close, and strong, and quite free from the vulgar gloss of the fraudulently sized European silks, for which the natives of India have the utmost contempt. The most common of all the native Panjab silk fabrics is the gulbadan or striped silk; pale green with a scarlet stripe; dark, nearly black green with a scarlet stripe; yellow, with a scarlet, or crimson stripe; purple with a yellow stripe; crimson with a white stripe; and white with a green, or any other stripe. Plain silk is called daryai. If shot with two colors, usually red and green, it is called dup-chan, "sunshine and shade." If shot with many colors, as in Cashmere, par-i-taus and "peacock-feathers." Checked silks, like checked cottons, are called charkhana. Lungis, khesis, &c., are woven garments of the same description as those in cotton of the same name. The lungi when of silk is usually enriched with a border of gold or silver, and variegated silk finished off with a gold or silver fringe. The silken khes is also edged with gold or silver; and in Lahore beautiful deep scarlet khesis are made, with broad gold borders, and are much sought after. All figured or damasked silks are called Suja Khani, from the name, Mr. Baden Powell infers, of the person who first introduced their manufacture into the Panjab. They are made principally at Bhawalpur. Gold and silver brocaded silk is called kinkhab [kincobs]. Very little of it is made in the Panjab. Most of what is seen is