Page:The Industrial Arts of India.djvu/195

 A white lace called g&ta, and a colored variety, called fiaitia , are made in the Punjab*

As silk is woven with the striped cotton suits of the Punjab and Sindh, so we find cotton mixed with silk in the silken piece goods known in India under such names as maskru and sufi, meaning “ permitted 11 and “lawful.” It is not lawful for Mahom- inedans to wear pure silk [holosericum], but silk mixed with cotton they are permitted to wear; and hence the well-known Indian fabrics with a cotton warp or back, and woof of soft silk in a striped pattern, having the lustre of satin, or atlas, are called maskru. Sufi is the name given to the striped j>ulbadan ** law- ful ” [sufi] silks, called also shuja-khanh, of Bhawalpur, which differ from mashrus in that they have no satiny lustre, and look like a glared calico. They tan scarcely be distinguished from fust's, and are glared with a mucilaginous emulsion of quinceseed. These mixed stuffs are also found plain and checked and figured, and are largely made in the Panjab and Sindh, at Agra, Hyderabad in the Dakhan, Tanjore and Trichi nop oly. Pure silk fabrics, striped, checked, and figured, are chiefly made at Lahore, Agra, Benares, Hyderabad in the Dakhan, and Tan- jore. The printed silks worn by the Parsi and Bhatia and Runia women of Bombay are a specialty of Surat, Wild silk [tasar, eria, and munga is woven chiefly in^Cachar, and at Darjiling, Bhagalpur, and Warangal Gold and silver are worked into the decoration of all the more costly loom- made garments and Indian piece goods, either on the borders only, or in stripes throughout, or in diapered figures. The gold-bordered loom embroideries are made chiefly at Sattara, and the gold or silver striped at Tanjore ; the gold figured mashrus at Tanjore, Trichinopoly, and Hydera- bad in the Dakhan ; and the highly ornamented gold figured silks, and gold and silver tissues principally at Ahmedabad, Benares, Murshedabad, and Trichinopoly. Dr. Forbes Watson restricts