Page:The Homes of the New World- Vol. III.djvu/202

Rh breaking against the rocks of Morro; inhale the sea-breezes, converse with the naiads; visit a church or two; look at the pomp there, listen to the music, then go home across La Plaza de Armas, where I linger awhile to study the monument to Columbus which I afterwards at home sketch into my book: but I am obliged to make my observations very warily, for the military on the Square are already beginning to watch me. They suspect that I am plotting an invasion.

Late in the evening, I walk about on the azotea among the urns, and watch the moon and the Morro-light emulating each other in lighting up the city and the sea, and watch the Southern Cross rise in quiet majesty above the horizon; whilst towards the northern star which shows out at sea, I always cast a friendly glance. The roar of the sea comes to me, from the side of Morro, and the gay sound of military music from La Plaza de Armas. Later in the night, the harmonious air and sounds are broken in upon by the Serenos, or fire-watchmen of Havannah, who sing so—that it really would be deplorable if it were not so extremely ludicrous. I never before heard such a succession of false, jaw-breaking, inharmonious tones. I cannot get angry with them for laughing.

I go to my friends, the F's., generally for an hour every morning, to paint the portrait of Mrs. F., which I wish to possess, in memory of one of the best, most motherly women in the world.

Whilst I am thus occupied, she tells me the experience of her life-time as regards the negro-character. Her observations agree in the main with those of Mrs. P. Mrs. F. says, as she does, “that there is a great difference in the characters and tempers of the negroes, as is the case among the white races, but that they are in general more accessible than these to the sentiment of attachment, of tenderness, and gratitude. The whites make a great mistake when they accuse the negroes of ingratitude. They