Page:The Emu volume 21.djvu/402

 time it was quite an important port, the goldfields' traffic going through it. That was before the railway from Perth diverted the stream of passengers and goods. From the long pier we could see quite a number of the Islands of the "Archipelago of the Recherche" dotting the ocean to the south. The boat we had engaged lay at her moorings close to the shore, and another slightly larger boat was anchored near by. Two or three dinghies on the beach completed the local "shipping." I was met by Mr. F. P. Hurley, agent for the Government steamship service, who had made local arrangements for me, and with his assistance I stored our equipment in a shed, formerly the office of the Esperance Times, and, the weather being too boisterous for going out to the islands, made the acquaintance of several local residents who had information to impart about the islands. As we had already experienced at Albany and on the way down, much was told of expeditions in the early days, and there was considerable conflict as to what was to be found on certain islands. All were unanimous, however, as to the Mutton Birds breeding "in millions," but we were told that young birds would be in the burrows by now. Geese were plentiful on some, and Quail were in flocks on other islands. Seals, both hair and fur, tamar (Dama) wallaby were as thick as rabbits; "deaf adders," other snakes, rats, etc.—all these and other desirable birds, beasts and fishes were abundant, or anyhow they were when the informant was last on the spot. We inspected our boat, and were not impressed by the "dinghy," an oblong contraption made out of packing-case pine with pointed ends nailed on to show which way the craft was progressing.

Saturday, November 26th, was fine with a strong southwesterly wind blowing. Larry Sinclair, one of the oldest residents, thought we might venture out as the wind would drop by noon. As he recommended Lion Island for our visit, stating that there were Mother Carey's Chickens there, we took him along. Sure enough, the wind did drop when we were about half way to the island, which lies eight miles from the pier. It was then I suggested that the motor might be brought into action. The engine was not responsive for some time, and then, after a few convulsive wobbles, it stopped. The light airs took us over a long ground swell, and in about two hours we reached the island. It is very steep, with a great granite cap weathered out like a huge cave. As we approached, a flock of Nankeen Night Herons rose and circled over the summit. Three Hooded Seals were seen on the rocks almost within reach of the surge. I sent Wright to try for the largest seal, a magnificent beast with a tawny mane. Sitting gingerly on one of the dinghy's pointed ends, with his rifle between his knees, Wright was taken towards the rocks by our skipper. The seal was not alarmed, and the risk of capsizing the craft if the gun were fired being too great, a landing was effected, but with no little difficulty, and at some distance from where the seal was basking. Climbing over a