Page:The Dictionary of Needlework (Volume 1).djvu/13

 THE DlCTIOP^Y OF I^EEDLEKIOR^. E practical lEnc^clopaebia* ABACA. — Tte native name for the Manilla hemp, produced by one of the Banana tribe. This fibre was introduced into Prance for the manufacture of dress materials, as well as of tapestry and articles of uphol- stery. In India it is made into the finest muslins and linen cloth. For these delicate stuffs, only the inner fibre of the leaf -stalk is employed; while canvas, as well as cordage, is produced from the coarser kind outside. The Abaca plant is a native of the East Indian Islands; and the well-known Manilla straw hats are plaited from its coarser fibres. Aljb. — From the Anglo-Saxon ab-oh. The yai-n of which the warp of any textile is composed, of whatever material it may be. Thus the term "Abb-wool," as employed by weavers, signifies the wool of which the warp of any stuff may be woven. A Bout. — A phrase denoting one complete round made in knitting. See Knitting. Abrasion.— A technical term denoting the figuring of textiles by means of weaving down the surface. Adding Bobbins. — ^Extra Bobbins are often required in Pillow lace while in progress of making. To add : Hang them on in pairs to the pin nearest the working Bobbins, and cut close and wind out of the way the knot that joins them together, to prevent the ends getting entangled with the Bobbin threads. Pass the new thread under two working Bobbins, and continue as usual. Adrianople Twill. — The French name synonymous with TuEKET Red Twill, which see. Aficot. — French name of instrament for polishing lace, and removing small hard scraps of cotton or thread. Agrafe. — The word is derived from the early Norman term Aggrapes, and is the modern French for a clasp or hook. It is also applied to gimp fastenings. The ancient Aggrapes included both the hook and eye which fastened medisBval armour. Aida Canvas. — This material, introduced under the French name Toile Colbert, is a description of linen cloth. It is also called " Aida Cloth," and Java Canvas (which see), as well as " Fancy Oatmeal." It is made in widths varying from 18 inches to 64 inches, and can be had in white, cream, grey, and gold colour; and is also pro- duced in a woollen coloured material. A cotton cloth of the same make is known by different names, those most employed being Basket Cloth and Connaitght. Aigrette. — A French term employed in millinery, denoting an upright tuft of filaments, grapes, or feathers as a decoration to the headdress, hat, or bonnet. Aiguille. — The French for needle. Aiguillette. — A trimming of cords terminating in tags of gimp, silk, gold, silver, or black metal. Alaska Seal Pur. — A comparatively inexpensive de- scription of Seal-skin. It is of a pale brown or fawn colour, and is employed for tippets, muffs, and trimmings. Albatross Cloth.. — A soft- fine bunting; it is known also as " Satin Moss," " Llama Croise," " Vienna " (the- stoutest make), " Snowflake " (which is flecked), " Antique Cloth," &c., 25 inches in width. Albert Crape. — A variety of crape composed of a union of silk and cotton; that called Victoria Crape being of cotton only. The widths of all descriptions of crape run from 32 inches to 1 yard. See Ceape. Alen^on Bar, A Needle Point Bar, chiefly used for filling up ii'regular spiaces in Modern Point lace. To make, as shown in Fig. 1 : Pass a thread backwards and forwards over the oi^en space to be covered as a „ „ ,, ■ Fio. 1. AiENroN Bar. Heeeingbone. Cover this thi-ead with Buttonhole, as shown in the illustration.