Page:The Deipnosophists (Volume 2).djvu/40

 I bought too some fine mullet, and young thrushes, And put them on the coals just as they were, Adding a little brine and marjoram. To these I added cuttle-fish and squills. A fine dish is the squill when carefully cook'd. But the rich cuttle-fish is eaten plain, Though I did stuff them all with a rich forced meat Of almost every kind of herb and flower. Then there were several dishes of boil'd meats, And sauce-boats full of oil and vinegar. Besides all this a conger fine and fat I bought, and buried in a fragrant pickle; Likewise some tench, and clinging to the rocks Some limpets. All their heads I tore away, And cover'd them with flour and bread crumbs over, And then prepared them as I dress'd the squills. There was a widow'd amia too, a noble And dainty fish. That did I wrap in fig-leaves, And soak'd it through with oil, and over all With swaddling clothes of marjoram did I fold it, And hid it like a torch beneath the ashes. With it I took anchovies from Phalerum, And pour'd on them one cruet full of water. Then shredding herbs quite fine, I add more oil, More than two cotylæ in quantity. What next? That's all. This sir is what I do, Not learning from recipes or books of cookery.

42. However, this is enough about cooks. But we must say something about the conger. For Archestratus, in his Gastronomy, tells us how every part of it should be treated, saying—

In Sicyon my friend you best can get A mighty head of conger, fat, and strong, And large; and also take his entrails whole, Then boil him a long time, well-soak'd in brine.

And after this he goes through the whole country of Italy, saying where the congers are best, describing them like a regular writer of an Itinerary, and he says—

There too fine congers may be caught, and they Are to all other fish as far superior As a fat tunny is to coracini.

And Alexis, in his Seven against Thebes, says—

And all the parts of a fine conger eel Well hash'd together, overlaid with fat.

And Archedicus, in his Treasure, introduces a cook speaking of some fish which he has been buying in the following terms—