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gave this name to the dish. But Anticlides, in the seventy-eighth book of his Returns, says, "Once when there was a design on the part of the Erythreans to put the Chians to death by treachery at a banquet, one of them having learnt what was intended to be done, said—

O Chians, wondrous is the insolence Which now has seized the Erythreans' hearts. Flee when you've done your pork—don't wait for beef.

And Aristomenes, in his Jugglers, makes mention in the following terms of boiled meat, which he calls [Greek: anabrasta krea]—

They used also to eat the testicles of animals, which they called [Greek: nephroi].—Philippodes, in his Renovation, speaking of the gluttony of Gnathæna the courtesan, says—

Then, after all these things, a slave came in, Bearing a large dish full of testicles; And all the rest of the girls made prudish faces, But fair Gnathæna, that undoer of men, Laughed, and said, "Capital things are testicles, I swear by Ceres." So she took a pair And ate them up: so that the guests around Fell back upon their chairs from laughing greatly.

34. And when some one said that a cock dressed with a sauce of oil and vinegar ([Greek: oxyliparon]) was a very good bird, Ulpian, who was fond of finding fault, and who was reclining on a couch by himself, eating little, but watching the rest of the guests, said—What is that [Greek: oxyliparon] you speak of? unless indeed you give that name to the small figs called [Greek: kottana] and lepidium, which are both national food of mine.—But Timocles, he replied, the comic poet, in his play called The Ring, mentions [Greek: oxyliparon], saying—

And sharks and rays and all the other fish, Which may be dressed in sauce of [Greek: oxyliparon].

And Alexis has called some men [Greek: akroliparoi], fat on the surface, in his Wicked Woman, saying—

Fat on the surface, but the rest of their body Is all as dry as wood.

And once when a large fish was served up in sour pickle ([Greek: oxalmê]), and somebody said that every fish ([Greek: opsarion]) was best when dressed in this kind of pickle, Ulpian, picking out the small bones, and contracting his brows, said,—Where do you find the word [Greek: oxalmê]? And as to [Greek: opsarion], I am quite sure that that is a word used by no living author. However,