Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide Part 13.djvu/79

Rh Staff: Two broad stripes of red cloth with ½ inch serge light.

Cavalry of the Line: Edging ½ in yellow cloth. This piping is also used on the edge of the collar and cuffs.

Royal Artillery: Edging ½ in dark blue cloth; in the centre a loop of scarlet braid from the shoulder-seam round the upper end of button hole, The sides of the loop {¼ in apart.

Royal Engineers: As for Royal Artillery but with colours reversed.

Infantry: Edging ½ scarlet cloth

Army Service Corps: Edging ¼ in white cloth; loop as for Royal Artillery, but of dull cherry braid

Army Pay Department: Edging ½ in white cloth; loop as for Royal Artillery, but of marrone braid.

Provost-Marshal: Edging ½ in, white cloth; loop as for Royal Artillery, but of black braid.

Inspector of Army Schools: Edging ½ light blue cloth.

Badges of rank are worn on the shoulder. end of the strap.

The sleeves are of the ordinary style, with 6-inch loose turn back cuffs with edging as stated above for mounted officers.

The body part is lined with italian cloth to a level of 14 inches below scye. The sleeves are also lined with this same material.

The pockets are of silesia, There is an in-breast pocket on the left side, which is jeatted in

A sword split is put on the left side 6½ inches long, in a slanting position. It is jeated in and double stiched through without catch.

The waist belts are cut with a seam through the centre of the upper portion, and are long enough to gather in 8 inches of surplus cloth when buttoned over.

The collar is of the stand and fall variety (2 inches by 3¼ inches). It is cut in one piece, and has a cloth tab sewn under the fall, and made to button over or button back, so that four buttons are sewn on the under collar.

Sample set of measures: Chest 36, waist 32, depth of scye 9, to waist 17, full length 48 inches (or 12 inches off ground), across back 7, sleeve 32, across chest 8, front shoulder 12½ over ditto 17. The chest and waist measure are taken over the vest, and the other over the jacket.

Add ½ to waist length, and ½in to the across-chest front shoulder and over shoulder

Square line O F L by 0 3.

O to tack 2 inches

O to 3 one third of depth of scye

From 9 to 22 half breast plus 4 inches

0 to 17½ waist length.

Add 2¼ inches beyond the line 0 for expanding pleat and fly opening

O to 3 one-twelfth of chest. Raise ¾in. and shape the back neck.

Apply the width across back, adding 1 inch.

Square the line at back scye, and spring out ¼ in on shoulder end.

Go back then across the chest plus $1/undefined$ from 22, and so find front of scye. Raise 1½ in.

Sweep C from H by the front shoulder measure less the back neck.

Make from 22 to C 1 inch longer than the first sweep, and so find the neck point.

Sweep B from H the over shoulder mea-sure less te distance from A to 9.

C to B ¼ in less than the back shoulder.

Rule the guide line to 1½ from B, and draw the scye, hollowing it ½ in, and sinking it ¾ in as shown.

C to D and D to E one-twelfth of chest.

Curve the centre line from D to 22

Rule through from 22 to bottom.

Place the vee ¼ in out from centre line and take out 1 inch at F.

F to G 5½ inches.

I to G 2 inches

Square down from 22; go out ½ in at waist, and then rule the centre line through to bottom.

The best method of finding the correct spacing of buttons is to first locate the holes.

Make F to top hole 5 inches, and from centre line to eye of bottom hole 2 inches, placing the four holes each 6½ inches apart.

Having done this, the edge can be drawn 1 inch outside, tapering to 2½ inches wide at M N.

From 9 to $10 1/2$ is one-fourth of chest plus 1½. From this point square down and overlap the sideseam 1½, or make the width of back 20 inches. and front 28 at the bottom.

Add 1 inch below M.

Such details as tabs, pockets, belt etc., will be gathered from the diagram.

The belt, as shown by diagram 2, is cut two seams more than twice the width, viz. 5 inches, the seam being arranged along the centre of the under part,

Square line O 26 and 0 5.

O to 1, 1 inch

O to 5½ as 8 to H, Diagram 1.

From 1 to 10 2 inches more than B to front pitch, Diagram 1.

O to 5 half 1 to 10.

Rule from 5½ to 5, and shape the top sleeve adding 1 inch of round.

Deduct the width of back at 10, and mark off the length of sleeve as usual.

Having found the length,slope the bottom 1½ in, and make the cuff one-sixth of chest plus 1½ in.

Suppress forearm 1 inch, and measure from 15 to 10¼ one-fourth chest plus 1¼ in.

Measure round underscye from pitch to pitch, Diagram 1, and apply such measure across from 5½ to line 8.

Hollow the Undersleeve 1¼ in.

The sleeve is cut without turn up, and the loose cuff 2 inches deeper than the finished depth.

Rule line O 9½, equal to the neck measure taken round O 3 and C E of Diagram 1.

Raise 2 inches at the front, and go back ½ in.

Curve sewing edge

Draw crease of drawing line at 2 inches down from O, and complete by adding the fall, 3¼ inches, as shown.

The diagram also shows the position of the tab and how it is buttoned back when not in use.

The buttons are of metal and of the pattern authorised for the various regiments.