Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide Part 13.djvu/71

68

The making up of Kilts is a speciality which is very seldom tackled by the ordinary tailor, and in the course of conversation with a cutter engaged in one of the leading West End Military trades, he informed us that it was the custom of his firm to procure kilts from Messrs. Fraser & Co., of lnverness, who made a speciality of this garment, and supply the trade; hut, as this course may not always be possible, it may he well for us to give a few general hints to begin with.

The quantity of material required is about 14 yards, and it is made of sufficient length to reach to within 1 inch of the knee: the average length being about 15 inches. The kilt consists of three parts, or rather three different arrangements; there is an under apron on the left side, the killed part at the back, the apron on the right side. The apron on the right side is finished with three pleats, in order to prevent any gaping at that part, and in addition to this, it is the custom with those who have made a study of this particular garment, to arrange this part with a fair amount of spring

The fitting part of the kilt is the lining which is used for the foundation for the hips, which must of course harmonise with the shape of the figure. Those having small hips would require a straighter skirt at the top than those with large hips. The material used for the kilt is then hosted to this lining and is securely stitched to it. The strap is placed at the top of the right side with a corresponding buckle on the left.

On the accompanying diagrams we illustrate how to cut the: Military Spat Puttee. These are