Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide Part 13.djvu/68

Rh to meet the crease edge at side as shown. Give a little spring above to provide for the necessary size of body. in measuring off the size of knee, measure from the crease edge inwards ½ knee plus ¼ inch;draw line from point 12 down to bottom of leg seam: the position of this latter point is placed ¼ of the bottom less ¼ inch from the centre construction line. To slope the top sides over the loot take out one or two fishes as indicated, starting directly across the top bar of the check and then seaming the edges together in this way the top lines of the check go over in the instep, and then proceed to mark out the under side. To find the angle of the seat measure up from 9 to 7, $1/undefined$ of the seat plus 1 inch; measure back from 9 to 13½, ¼ of the seat; draw a line from 12 through 7, connecting it with point 13½, and spring out a little at top. Now measure up waist to measure plus 1 inch, and see that the seat measures up to ½ seat plus 2 inches; add on 1 inch at the bottom of the leg seam at underside and complete as shown.

There are some cutters who prefer to follow a somewhat different course to the above; they cut out an ordinary pattern as previously described for Infantry trousers, and they stretch the material into shape, so that it follows the side seam to the top side: they then place the pattern on with the first strip level with the bottom, and the first vertical strip 3½ inches from the side seam, and they then arrange the top and underside so as to dispense with the side seam, at least up as far as the hips, where it is permissible to take out a V, so as to adjust the garment to the size of the wearer at waist. Take fishes out as previously described of the top side over the instep in order to get them to fit snugly at that particular part; the fish being afterwards stored the material being stout enough to allow for this.

It is customary to finish all trousers with it fob pocket only: it is, however, becoming more and more the custom to have them finished with cross pockets, there being less likelihood of the contents falling out than in the fob pockets. When lob pockets are preferred, however, it is generally desirable to finish them with a flap, with button and button hole. The military regulations with reference to the sewing on of the stripe down side seam are that they shall be laid on, rather than inserted with the seam: this, however, only refers to the wider stripe, and not to the narrow piping, such as is used on the infantry pattern. The plan followed for this being to cut a piece of scarlet cloth about twice the width of piping desired plus two seams. In the case of the infantry, the size of piece of scarlet required would be about 1 inch wide, this is generally hosted in with the ordinary seam, and by taking ¼ inch