Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide Part 13.djvu/67

64 to 12 ⅓ of seat, square up from 9 and down from 6.

A to 10 is ¼ of waist beyond which 1 inch is added 1 inch is also added beyond O. The knee is found in the ordinary way by measuring down from 6 2 inches less than ½ leg measure from K; mark out ¼ of knee plus 1 inch, and from B mark out ¼ of bottom plus 1½ inches. This will give extra width to the top of side. To find the run of the leg seam measure in front K ½ of the knee, and measure in from B ¼ of the bottom minus ¼ inch; complete draft of top side as shown; take out 1 inch of dress in the ordinary way. For the underside mark up from 9 ½ of the seat plus 1 inch, and out from 9 ⅛ of the seat; draw line from 12 through *, raise top of underside 4 inches above the top of fronts. To find the point of the seat piece come in 2 inches from seat seam.

Make up waist to measure plus 1 inch at the side seam. Measure up the seat to measure plus 2 inches. Make the knee of underside ¼ knee measure less 1 inch, and the bottom of underside to bottom less 1 inch, and draw line as shown. Add 1 inch to the leg seam at knee of underside so that the total size of knee when cut is 1 inch more than measure desired. Make up bottom to measure plus 1 inch, and complete draft as shown.

The system for cutting Scotch trews is practically the same as we have already described for the Infantry Trousers; but there is this difference to be notes - they are cut without a side seam. Consequently the width of the knee is adjusted entirely at the leg seam, with the result that a rather hollow leg seam results; this, however, is helped as far as possible by manipulation, the side seam being shrunk at the knee and the lower part of the leg manipulated in such a manner as to get a hollow on the side seam (or rather where the side seam should be). rather than the leg seam.

Mark off the length of side seam and leg scam, seeing that the bottom of the leg seam starts with a stripe. This is important, otherwise the stripes would not harmonise with those worn by other officers. In like manner, the vertical stripe should be arranged 3½ inches from the side at bottom. This having been. done, mark across from O to 6, ½ of the seat, O to 9 ¼ of the seat, O to 12 ⅓ of the seat. The centre line of leg is found at the bottom by marking in from the crease edge of the material, ¼ of the bottom plus 1 inch; and a line is drawn from that point by the point 6. The fork and knee lines being drawn at right angles to this construction line, from to measure across ¼ of waist and spring out