Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide Part 13.djvu/65

62 $1/undefined$ neck, and make X Z $1/undefined$ neck plus ¾ inch. The lapel is cut, with the sewing to edge of the same shape as front edge of forepart, the width of the lapel at top is 4 inches and 3 inches at the bottom.

For the skirt, hollow the waist seam a bare ½ inch, mark down from W to 4½ ¼ breast, and square for back pleat at right angles to 4½ T; mark off the length as desired. To get the spring of the front, measure down from T 3½, $1/undefined$, breast plus ½ inch, and square at right angles to 3½ W; add on at the front the necessary width for the lape, .making the length of front to agree, and complete as shown. The sleeve is cut as follows: O to 1, 1 inch, 0 to 5½ is width of scye, which may be found by deducting the width of B F from the distance from C to L, the hindarm seam of sleeve is located at the side seam, and the forearm at point L; to obtain the width of sleeve head measure round top scye from F to G, and across to L; apply that from 1 to 10; O to 5 is ½ distance from 1 to 10; measure off length off sleeve to elbow and cuff, hollow the forearm at elbow 1 inch, and make the width of elbow from 1 to 9, about ¼ of the breast. The width of cuff may be made $1/undefined$ breast plus 1 inch. For the under sleeve measure round the bottom of scye from F to L, and apply that quantity from 5½ to 8½, and complete as shown.

Draw line at right angles, marl: oil' from O to 8½ to size of neck, come up from 8½ 1 inch and shape the sewing to edge, O to 1¼ is 1¾ inches or the depth of stand required. 1¾ to 5½ to 4¼ inches or depth of fall required. From 8½ to 11 is 2½ inches, and from'll to 3 is 3 inches; complete collar as shown.

The alterations, which came into force on the 21st of January, 1902, had the effect of abolishing gold lace from Trousers, with the exception of the ; the cloth stripes on the trousers, are now to be the same as those worn previously on the pantaloons. In the, maroon cloth has to be worn instead of the scarlet cloth on trousers and pantaloons, and in all other branches of the service, the old style of undress trousers are now the only pattern. A special note was made in the Army Order stating that the trouser stripes should be sewn on, not let into the garment, which of course refers to the wide stripe and not to the piping on trousers worn by the Infantry.

The trousers worn by Field-Marshals and General Officers are made from blue cloth with scarlet stripes, 2½ inches wide down the side seams.

Trousers worn by the Head-Quarters, General and Personal Staff have a 1¾ scarlet stripe.

Trousers worn by the Household Cavalry for full dress are made from blue cloth with gold lace down the side seam.

—Two stripes each 1¼ inches wide with a scarlet welt down the centre.

—One stripe 2½ inches wide, blue in the centre.

—One stripe 2¼ inches wide.

For undress the stripes are of scarlet cloth and are arranged as follows:—

—Two stripes 1½ inches wide.

—Two stripes 1¼ inches wide, ½ inch apart, with a scarlet welt or piping between the stripes.

.—There is a single stripe, 2½ inches wide.

—Trousers are made of blue cloth with cloth stripe of the same colour as those worn by the men 1¾ inches wide.

.—One stripe 1¾ inches wide made from white cloth.

—Two white stripes ¾ inch wide, with ¼ inch space between.

In all other regiments the stripe is 1¾ inches wide.

—Trousers of blue cloth (with the exception of the 11th. which are made of crimson cloth with two ¾ inch yellow cloth stripes. ⅛ inch apart).

—Two white stripes ¾ inch wide, ⅛ inch apart.

All other: with two yellow stripes, ¾ inch wide with ⅛ inch space between.

.—Trousers of blue, with two stripes. ¾ inch wide, with ⅛ inch space between.

—The stripes are white.

But in All the others they are of yellow.

.—Trousers of blue,with 1¾ inch scarlet stripe down the sides.

—Trousers worn are made of blue cloth with 2 inch scarlet stripe down side seam.

Foot Guards at Levees and Drawing Rooms.—When full dress is worn in the evening, blue cloth, with gold lace 1½ inches wide down side seam: on other occasions, blue cloth with scarlet stripe 2 inches wide.

(except Highland and Scottish Regiments).—Trousers made of blue cloth, with scarlet welt or piping ¾inch wide down the side seams.

.—Trews of tartan of authorised pattern.

—Trews are of tartan of authorised pattern.

(King's Royal Rifles and all others).—Trousers of rifle green cloth with 2 inch black braid down side seams; but, for summer wear they are made from rifle green tartan.