Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide Part 13.djvu/64

Rh ½ inch, O to B ½ depth of scye, plus ½ inch, O to C depth of scye, O to D natural waist length, O E, fashion waist. B to F width of back, plus one seam, F to G $1/undefined$ breast plus 1 inch. G to H 1 inch; by these points shape back scye and shoulder seam. Draw a line from F to D and find point J, ½ or ¾ inch inside the dotted line. Width of back at waist is made up to

4¼ inches, so that it should be cut about 2½ inches from D to N, E to S being the same width. The bottom of the back is stumped, the centre of the back is cut on the crease; from C to M is chest at measure plus 4 inches, M to L, across vest plus ½ inch; from these two points sweep for the neck point V, and use front shoulder measure plus ½ inch less width of back neck: when sweeping from point L, add 1 inch to this quantity. and sweep again from point M where these two segments intersect each other locates neck point Y. To find point X, sweep from point L, by the over-shoulder measure: plus ½ inch, but minus the distance from C to 1 of the back, lower the scye about ¾ inch between line C M, and complete scye as shown. From Y to X is $1/undefined$ inch less than width of back shoulder A to H, C to K is ¾ breast plus ½ inch, take out 1¼ or 1½ inches from N to O. take out 1 inch from P to Q, and measure up waist to measure plus 3½ inches. Now use point F as a pivot sweeping from S to T, draw line across from T to W at right angles to line O E, hollow the waist at V about ¾ inch, and complete body part. The gorge being found by squaring out from Y M to X