Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide Part 13.djvu/57

54 in from N W. Allow 2½ inches all down the back for the pleat, and complete the back as shown.

Suppress the sideseam of the fort-part ½ inch or 1 inch, and add 1½inch spring at the bottom. C to F is ¼ of the breast plus 3 inches. C to 20½ is the ½ breast, plus 2½ inches. Sweep by the front shoulder measure less the back neck from F. Add 1 inch to this quantity, and sweep again from 20½, and where these segments cross locate the neck point. Sweep from F by the over-shoulder measure less to C to J of the back, and make G K a trifle lens than the corresponding width of the back. G to X at H $1/undefined$, neck. H to J is $1/undefined$ neck plus ¼ inch. The average neck for the 36-inch breast is 15¾. Square down from 20½, and drop the waist line in front ¾ inch. Reduce the waist by a fish under the arms of 1 inch, and another in the front of ¾ inch. Find the spring at the front by dropping down from the waist line to * one twelfth of the breast, and squaring at right angles to * L. Drop the front 1 inch as shown. Add on ¾ inch for the button-hole side, and 1¾for the button side, and complete as shown.

Draw lines at right angles to 0. O to B 1 inch. O to A is the distance between the front of scye and the back, or a trifle more than between line J and F. B to C the size of the upper part of the scye between the two pitches. The length to the elbow and cuff is made up to the measure taken. The forearm in hollowed 1 inch at D, and the width from 1 to 9 is $1/undefined$ chest plus 2 inches. The width of the cuff is ¼ breast plus ½ inch. E to F is 1½ inches. For the undersleeve, A to D is the same size as the lower part of the scye between the two pitches. The collar is cut as shown on the diagram. and is only a straight piece 4½ inches wide, and of the necessary length.

of the Universal Service jacket is cut as a Lounge to the waist, with a 2¼ inch expanding pleat down the centre of back to the waist, but sewn down below the waist seam; a 2¼ inch waist-band is sewn on round the waist.

The length of the skirt below the waist-hand is the some as for the tunic. Two cross pockets and flaps are placed on the hips below the waist, the flaps being stitched on under the waist-band. The flaps are 3½ inches wide and 10½ inches long, the pockets below being of the bellows pattern, and are made 9 inches at the top and 10½ inches at the bottom. The expansion is tacked down at top and bottom of the pocket, except for active service. There is a ticket pocket placed on the waist-hand on the right side, and a watch-pocket placed in the left facing. Four large buttons are placed down the front, two small buttons outside the breast pockets, and a corresponding number for the hip pockets. The breast pockets have a box-pleat 2½ inches wide down the centre. O to A is 1 inch. A to B 4¾ inches, or half the depth of scye plus ½ inch. A to C 8½ inches, or the depth of scye; on to N W, 16½ the natural waist length. O to D $1/undefined$ of N, plus ¾ inch. D to E ¼inch. B to F width of back plus two seams. F to G $1/undefined$ breast, plus 1 inch. G to H 1 inch. Square down G F to waist, and suppress back ½ inch. Suppress waist at back 1 inch, and add on a 2½inch box-pleat. The want line is sewn round back as well as forepart. Spring out at bottom back by dropping square as per dotted line ½inch. Suppress forepart an marked. The front of scye is found at one-fourth of breast plus 3 inches front centre of back; or by measuring back from 20½ one-fourth of B M less ½ inch. 20½ at waist is drawn at right angles from 20½ B. The cuts are regulated according to the amount of ease, etc., that is required round waist. The run of gorge is found by going out from the neck point ⅛ of neck, and drawing line from X through breast and waist points.

The Sleeve:—O to A is 1 inch. O to B distance between pitches. A to C width of sleevehead.

The Collar:—Draw lines O, D and E, O to A is the difference between depth of stand and fall, plus ½ inch. A to B is depth of stand. B to C depth of fall. D to E depth of stand in front.

Military Overcoat is practically the same for all services, those used for mounted officers being cut with extra spring so as to provide for the special requirements of that class.

The following are the official regulations of the Military Greatcoat:—

Cloth, drab mixture, milled and water-proofed; double-breasted, to reach within a foot of the ground, stand and fall collar, 5 inches deep (2 inch stand and 3 inch fall), fastening with two hooks and eyes; cloth tab and button; a 2½ inch inverted expanding pleat down the centre of the back, from the collar to the waist, terminating under the back-strap: loose turn-back cuffs of single material, 6 inches deep; two slits at side, 10 inches long. jeated in with button-catch for pocket-mouth; two large patch pockets inside of same cloth; one button and hole to each pocket mouth: and left pocket mouth to answer for the sword slit: a pocket in the breast placed vertically between the second and third button: two rows of buttons down the front, four in each row, about 6½ inches apart, the rows 8 inches apart at the top and 4½ inches at the bottom (these measurements are not to be exceeded); two tabs and buttons to slit in back seam; a 2-inch cloth backstrap fastened with three holes and buttons: skirt to fasten with two tabs and buttons inside,