Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide Part 13.djvu/54

Rh arrangement of the buttons on the cuff has already been stated.

For the Irish Guards there are four buttons put in two pairs and a flat bar at the waist.

For all other Officers the new Universal Service Frock replaces the various patterns that were previously worn; a description of this garment is as follows:—This is made of special Mixture serge, of the same colour as that issued to the men; single-breasted; cut as a lounge coat to the waist; the very loose at the chest and shoulders, but fitted at the waist; 2½ inches expanding pleat down the centre of the back, sewn down below the waistband, and a waist seam and band 2½ inches wide; military skirt to bottom edge; a hook on each side at the waist; jacket cut low in front of the neck; turn down (Prussian) collar, to fasten with one hook and eye: tab underneath, with two button-holes, to button across the opening 2¾inches fall in the from and 2 inches at the back, collar edges to run V-shape, showing top button between; two cross-patch breast- oackets, 6½ inches wide and 7½ inches deep to the top of the flap, 2¼ inches box pleat in the centre; two expanding pockets below the waist (pleats at the sides), 9¼ inches wide at the top, 10½ inches at the bottom, 8 inches deep to the top of the pocket. fastened at the top with a small button; flap, with button hole, to cover pockets, 3½ inches deep. 10¾ inches wide, sewn into bottom edge of waistband. The top of the pockets should be sewn down at the corners in such a manner that on service the pocket can be expanded at the top also. Outside ticket pocket in top of the waistband on the right side; inside watch pocket, with leather tab above for chain or strap. Five large buttons down the front, the bottom one on the lower edge of waistband. To he lined or not as required, with lining of similar colour to the jacket. Cuffs pointed 5½ inches deep at the point. 2½ inches deep at the back.

are now only worn by Staff Officers, for whom they have two broad stripes of red cloth with ½ inch surge, light.

All other officers have plaited braid shoulder cords.

Gilding material, unglit, "die struck." "not mounted." Regimental patterns.

On the collar of the service dress jacket—The present pattern field cap badge, or the present pattern collar badges, but in brown bronze.

—Metal as worn on blue serge frocks, vide Dress regulations, paragraph 2.

—Rank will be shown by braiding on the sleeves with drab braid and by distinction badges on the sleeves, as shown on the accompanying illustration.

It will be seen that there is a slash six inches long at the forearm sean, and seven inches long at the points 2½ inches wide at the bottom, and 3 inches at the top. This is edged with fancy drab braid. Distinction marks according to tank are put in the slash. Round the cuffs are rows of braid, together with narrow Russia braid, also of drab. The position and arrangement of these for the different ranks will be gathered from the accompanying diagrams.

We now place before our readers the diagram of an Officer's Service Dress. jacket, as made by one of the most renowned military tailors in the West End, who have a style of cut and finish which is essentially their own, and which is, consequently not in accordance with the sealed pattern kept at the War Office.

The main differences are an absence of cuts at the neck, the skirt is cut in one with the body part, and the slash on the cuff is formed by the braid. Large numbers of these jackets cut in this style are now being made, and worn by the officers.

In a future issue we will give an up-to-date diagram of the sealed pattern style.