Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide Part 13.djvu/52

Rh the Patrol than any of the others. The System for drafting is as follows:— Draw line O A A, come up twin O 1 inch. 1 to 2¾, $1/undefined$ neck plus ¼ inch, O to 5, 5 depth of scye plus ½ inch, O to 9, depth of scye, O to 17, natural waist length, O to AA full length plus ½ inch, square lines from these points and mark all as follows: 5 to 7½, width of back plus 1 seam; from this point square up to 4, $1/undefined$ of breast plus 1 inch, mark out from 4 to 1, 1 inch and shape back scye from 1 to $7 1/2$, shape shoulder from 2¾ to 1, as illustrated; from 9 measure across ¼ breast to point 9, ⅔ of the breast to point 12:, and chest measure plus 2½ inches to point 20½; or point 12 may he obtained by measuring back from point 20½, the across chest measure; find the position of neck and shoulder point as previously described and shape scye and front in the same way as before. In locating positions of the seams, the following rules should be followed: Width of back at the waist is made equal to one-eighteenth of the breast, width of back at the bottom is made equal to onetwelfth of the breast, 1½ inch of suppression is taken out between back and side body, and side body is made to overlap the back ½ inch at the bottom; square clown from point 9;, and take out from ¾ to 1 inch suppression, let side body of forepart overlap for about ½ inch. Find spring of the front as previously described, and complete as per diagram.

The Foot Guards Frock is made of red Angola tartan, or serge, according to climate, cut full

in the chest, and lined in the front with scarlet, blue cloth stand up collar and shoulder straps, shoulder straps with small regimental button at top, and six large regimental buttons down the front. Grenadier Guards, equal distance apart. Coldstream Guards, by pairs. Scots Guards. by threes. The band, 1½inch wide round the waist, with special pattern buckle 2 inches long, 1½ inches wide, in front; the ticket pocket with shaped flap and small button on each breast; a small pocket without button below the hand; a slit at the cuff, with small button and button-hole. Grenadier Guards, two. Coldstream Guards, two pairs. Scots Guards, threes

Draw line O A A. O to 1 equal 1 inch. 1 to A, $1/undefined$ neck, plus ¼inch. O to E ½ depth of scye, plus ½ inch. O to F depth of scye. O to G natural waist. O to A A full length. E to D width of back, D to B $1/undefined$ breast, plus 1 inch, B to C $3/4$ inch; shape shoulder from A to C. F to J ½ chest measure, plus 2 inches. J to K across chest measure; or it may be found ⅔ of breast, from point F. G to H ⅓ of breast. Shape side seam, as illustrated. H to R, $1 1/2$ inches, square down from J to U and measure up waist to measure, plus seams, and reduce by V's, as shown. As a general rule 1 inch should he taken out at S T and ½ inch at Y, sweep for the shoulder. First of all from K, using the front shoulder measure. less O A of hack; now add 1 inch to this quantity and sweep again from point J; where the two segments intersect each other locates. the neck point N: N to O $1/undefined$ of neck. Place the square on J N, and mark out to O, O to P, $1/undefined$ neck, plus ½ inch; by this point draw gorge, draw breast line from O to J, add on ¾inch at P and L to nothing at waist; this is done to give extra ease at that part; add on ¾ inch button stand, and complete, as shown.

To find the scye end of shoulder, sweep from point K by the over-shoulder measure, less F O S at back, make the width of shoulder a trifle less than back and shape scye as illustrated. The bottom part of forepart is cut off as a separate skirt; mark down from X to *, ½ of seat, plus 1 inch; square by R * down to W and add on a trifle of round; come down from R to V, $1/undefined$ of seat, and square for from at right angles to X. The position of pockets is illustrated; a small loop of braid is put at the side seam, at H for the belt, to go through; sew on button stand on right side and make provision for this when cutting the skirt: three small Vs are taken out of the waist seam of the skirt, with the object of giving extra spring over the hips. The sleeve is cut exactly the same as already described. The