Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide Part 13.djvu/50

Rh

This is made of blue serge of regimental pattern, scarlet gorget patch, with crimson loop with regimental button.

This is practically the same as the preceding one, with the exception of the gorget patch, finished with crimson silk gimp.

This is made as described for Field-Marshal, with the following regimental details: -Collar is stand and fall for General Officers, stand up for Officers below that rank, fastened with one: hook and eye; gorget patch is trimmed with a loop of gold chain gimp, gold or silk, according to rank, along the centre, with button 1 inch from the point, and shoulder straps with Royal cypher and crown in gilt or gilding metal; no badges of rank.

Draw line O, A, A come up from O, 1 inch, 1 to 2¾ $1/undefined$ neck plus ¼ inch, O to 5, ½ depth of scye plus $1/undefined$ inch, O to 9, depth of scye, O to 17, natural waist, O to Am A full length plus 2 seams. Square across from these points, from 5 to 7¼ width of back plus 1 seam; from these points square up to 4, $1/undefined$ breast plus 1 inch: mark out from 4 to 1, 1 inch and draw shoulder seam, as illustrated. From 9 to 20½, ½ chest measure plus 2½ inches, 20½ to 12 across chest measure, and from these two points sweeps are made to find the neck-point. The first sweep is made from point 12 by the front shoulder measure less width of back neck, add 1 inch to that quantity and sweep from point 20½; where the two segments intersect each other locates the neck point F. From F to V is $1/undefined$ of the neck; now place the angle of the square on F and 20|½, mark out to V $1/undefined$ of the neck, V to 1 $1/undefined$ neck plus ½ inch, draw line from V through 20½ and from this point square down, add on ½ inch for surplus room in the front, and reduce neck to measure by small V, as shown, at the gorge, add on ¾ inch for the button-hole side, and sew on the button stand. To find slope of shoulder sweep from point 12, by the over-shoulder measure, less distance from 9 to W of the hack, make the width at shoulder from F to D ¼ inch less than width of back shoulder, shape scye by points so obtained, make width of back at waist equal to $1/undefined$ of chest, take out 1 inch suppression between 6 and 7 and let side seam overlap ½ inch at the bottom, leave 4½ inch slit and complete: side seam, drop the waist line in front from U to 1, 1 inch and come down from 7 to V $1/undefined$ breast and square from V 1, to find spring of the bottom part of the forepart.

It will he observed that we have left extra room on front. This is intended to be utilised on the right side for seeing on the button stand. the left forepart being cut away, as illustrated.

The sleeve is same as previously described.

This is made of blue Angola tartan or serge, full in chest, but cut with side bodies, slits at side, five small regimental buttons down the front, two breast patch pockets outside, 6|½ inches wide. 8½ inches deep, from the top of the flap: the top edge of the pocket in line with the second button, with three pointed flaps, small regimental button and hole, loose pleat on rear side of pocket, two outside patch pockets below, with three pointed flaps, two inside breast pockets with vertical pockets, mouths lastened with holes and buttons, two inside skirt pockets with button and hole; shoulder straps of the same material, steel shoulder chain with badges of rank, black lining, collar and cuffs of the regimental facings,