Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide Part 13.djvu/48

Rh three eyes at the top and two eyes at the bottom; five loops of black square cord are placed at each side of the front, and these are fastened with olivetts, each loop forms an eye above and below the centre, and a drop at the end; a cap or setted button is put at the top of each drop; pointed cuffs, with 1 inch mohair braid, tracing at the bottom with Russia braid, forming an eye in the angle; the collar edged with 1 inch mohair braid, traced below the braid and the collar seam, forming an eye in the corner at the back, below centre of collar; the tracing forms a plume, 6 inches deep, lined with black, and fastened down the front with hooks and eyes. A pocket on either side below the fourth loop, and one on each side of the breast; shoulder cords as for the Tunic.

Square line at right angles to O. O to H, 1 inch, and H to 8¼ depth of scye, H to 16½ length of natural waist, square across line from 8½ and 16½ width of back neck is made $1/undefined$ the total neck measure, plus l inch. The back is cut on the crease edge, and being worn without a belt the centre of back is kept to the construct-ion line. H to X is ½ depth of scye, plus ½ inch, draw the line at right angles to this and measure off width of back plus ¼ inch. From 7¼ draw line to 16½, and hollow the side seam of back about ¾ of inch, 8¼ to 9, {¼of breast, 8¼ to 12, ⅔ of breast, 8|¼to {20½, ½ breast measure, plus 2½ inches. From 12 sweep by the front shoulder less 2¾, the width of back neck. Sweep from 20½ by the front shoulder measure, plus 1 inch, and so locate the neck point. Find the height of back shoulder seam by measuring up from 7¼, ½ of breast, plus 1 inch. Spring out 1 inch and form the back scye. Now measure up from A to B, and deduct from the over-shoulder measure.