Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide Part 13.djvu/34

Rh side, with two olivetts on each loop; the top loops reach to the shoulder seams, six at the waist, 4 inches long; ¾ inch braid on the outer seam of sleeve and back seam, with eyes and fringe at the waist, and tassels at the back skirts. The front fastens with hooks and eyes; black silk lining in the skirt; shoulder straps of the same material as the garment, each with $1/2$ inch black mohair braid, except at the base; black netted button at the top.

This is made of blue cloth, S-B., with stand collar, ornamented with figured cording and figured braiding on the cuffs; five loops of black braid down each front, with two olivetts on each loop, the top loops reaching to the shoulder seam, the bottom one 4 inches long. The bottom row is some little distance above the waist; three rows of braid on each back skirt, finished with a tassel at the bottom, with an olivett at the top. The front is finished with hooks and eyes, the skirt lined with black silk, and the shoulder straps of the same material as the garment, edged with ½ inch black mohair braid. except at the base; black net button at the top.

Frock-coat worn by Army Chaplains is an ordinary Clerical Frock.

Draw line 1 G, make 1 to O 1 inch, O to E ½depth of scye plus ½ inch O to F depth of scye, as taken on customer. O to G natural waist length; draw lines at right angles to to,1, E, F, G; come in from G to H 1 inch to find centre of back; this must be straight, as the back is taken out on the crease.

1 to A is$1/undefined$ of the neck measure plus ¼ inch. The width of back on line D is made to measure plus ¼ inch; from this point square up to B, $1/undefined$ of the breast plus 1 inch from B to C, ¾ to 1 inch; by these points draw back scye from D to C, shoulder seam from A to C, and back neck from O to A. Now draw a straight line from D to G and hollow side seam of back about ¾ inch at 1; make width of back from H to Q about 2 inches. From Q to R is ½inches; point D is made a pivot and sweep from Q to V to find the length of side body. Point 1 is made a pivot, and a sweep is made from ¼ inch above point D to find top of side body.

Both of these sweeps are necessary, because, when sewing the side body to the back, a seam taken from the back makes it longer, and one taken from the side body makes it shorter. Measure across from ½ to L, the ½ chest measure plus 2½ inches. From L to K is the across chest measure, as taken on customer, or it may be found by measuring across from ½ to K, ⅔ the breast. Now sweep by the front shoulder measure less the width of back neck from O to A, making point K a pivot, and sweep in the direction of N. Now add 1 inch to that quantity, and use point L as a pivot, and sweep in the direction of N, where the two segments intersect each other, locates the neck point; place the square on L N, and mark out to O $1/undefined$, of neck measure, down from O to P, $1/undefined$ of neck plus ½ inch; to find the slope of shoulder at M deduct the distance from ½to O S, on the back from the over-shoulder measure, and by the remainder sweep in the direction of M, using point K as a pivot. From ½ to J is ½ breast; square down from this point and take out 1½ inches of waist suppression between S and T. Measure up waist to $1/undefined$, waist measure plus 1 inch; square across from V to X, and hollow waist ½inch. Add on ¼ inch beyond the breast line for the lapel seam, and shape label as illustrated; make it 4 inches wide at top and 2½ wide at bottom.

Draw line across from V to X and hollow the waist seam at W ¾ inch. Mark down to Z, ⅛ of the seat, and by this point square from V to A A; mark down from V to T one-twelfth of the seat plus ½ inch, and square front to B B. Add on ¾ inch of round at the back, and complete skirt as shown.

The amount of fulness to be provided for at the waist must be decided in each case; it will not be necessary, as a rule, to allow for more than 1 inch.

As shown, H to Q, agrees with H Q of the back. C C, D D, is $1/undefined$ inch more than H Q: ½ inch is added on for seams above H Q, and 1 inch is allowed for the making up of the pleat beyond Q and D D.

The Frock-coat, such as is worn by those Officers who are mounted, requires: little adaptation from what we have already described, and we herewith give a small diagram, showing the necessary variations. As far as bodypart is concerned this particular coat is identical with what we have already described, the lapel, however, is cut wider. The regulation for the distance between the buttons being wider than for the ordinary Officer. These are 8 inches apart at the top, and 4 inches apart at the waist part; the bottom is also increased to 8, in order to provide for this: the lapel is cut 5 inches wide at the top and 3 inches wide at the bottom. Coming to the skirt, it will be noticed that more spring is provided round the bottom edge in order that