Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide Part 13.djvu/21

18 shoulder point by squaring up one-sixth of scale and coming out one inch.

Mark off back neck indicated on diagram by $1/6$ N, or one-sixth of the total size of the neck. The shoulder line is marked a quarter inch above line, so as to allow for seam.

Join neck point and shoulder point.

Draw construction line from top of side-seam of 16.

Mark off width of back on the waist line 1½inches), and form side seam by curving it about two inches from construction line.

Then mark out from the back seam opposite, 8¼ half of the scale, in order to find the width of sidebody; continue to ⅔ for front of scye, and to 20½ for full measure. This last quantity is half the breast and 2½ inches.

The neck point and over-shoulder quantities are obtained in the ordinary way.

Is found by placing one arm of the square resting on 20½ and the X; this latter point being fixed at one-third of the half neck from the neck point. The distance from the neck point to the bottom of the gorge is also one-third of the half neck.

The amount of suppression between the back and side body is 1½ inches and, the same amount is taken out at the underarm seam as shown on the diagram. The amount allowed over the half waist for marking up is one inch; it is unnecessary to allow more than that on account of a girdle 2½ inches in width being worn round the waist.

Indicated by the white part of the diagram, is arranged so that the top buttons are one inch