Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide Part 13.djvu/19

16 Draw Back scye and shoulder seam, and go up and out half an inch at neck point.

The width of the back part of the waist line is 2½ inches. Draw a line from the top of side-seam to 18, and hollow sideseam of back part 1 inch.

The underarm seam is fixed at ½of breast measure, and the round of sidebody is shaped in harmony with the back part; 1½ inches suppression between back and sidebody, and ½inch on each side of the construction line at the underarm seam.

From 10½ to the front scye is two-thirds of the working scale 45, equal to 15 inches from the centre of the back. Extend line across to breast size 24, and add 2½ for making up (26½).

Mark up from 26½to B one sixth of the disproportion. A proportionate military figure is 5 inches smaller waist then chest, thus 48 b., 43 w., which gives five-sixths of an inch from 26½} to B.

Draw a new line breast line from ⅔ to B.

Apply the front shoulder measure from ⅔ to E, after deducting the quantity C to D.

E to H is the same width as back shoulder less ½ inch.

Hollow the scye ½ or ⅜ inch in in front of line drawn from ⅔. Measure out from E $1/6$ of neck measure, and mark down $1/6$ and ½ inch extra for a figure of this type.

Draw the centre line to B.

Make up the size of the waist 24 and 1 inch.

Add ⅝ inch for button-hole side all the way down the front.

Drop the forepart 1 inch below the original waist line 18, 24 plus 1.

The waist seam is hollowed ½ inch.

Draw a straight line from the bottom of the forepart. Hollow line ¼ inch immediately in front of the underarm seam.

In order to obtain the spring at the back of skirt mark down one-sixth of the breast scale and 1 inch, and draw line at right angles to K N.

The spring at the front of the skirt is obtained by marking down from N to L one-sixth less 1 inch, and square lines at right angles to L M. All divisions on this diagram are reckoned of the half breast.

The waist length of all Tunics should be cut to the nett measure, as no such thing as a "fashion waist" exists in garments designed to be worn with a tight-fitting belt. In any case, it is better to cut the length of waist ½ inch too short than too long.

A stand of ⅝ inch is left on down the left forepart for the button holes, but the button-stand should always be seamed on down the right forepart so as to ensure a snug fit down the front edge.

The sleeve for a figure of this description should be cut as to have slightly backward hang.

A very great deal of the success of military garments depends upon the employment of skilled workmen, and there is no branch of tailoring in which a speciality shows off to so much advantage as in the making of military garments. It will be well for the cutter to start with the knowledge of the ideal fit required.

In a Tunic is should be made to closely fit at the waist, easy at the chest, close at the neck with ample provision made for the movement of the arms. Now it will be found that in order to obtain this, care must be taken: it will not be an easy matter to produce this ideal, as a close fit over the hips necessitates a little stretching out of the forepart, just over the hips, otherwise there will be a tendency for it to crease at that particular part. For the collar to fit snug at the neck the forepart will require stretching at the neck point a trifle. The back being cut on the crease will be improved if a little attention is given to the spring in the centre; the part which requires more skill than any other is the drawing in of the front edge; the forepart is cut with a moderate amount of round, and this drawn in when the button stand is sewn on, and it is customary in some of the best trades to put this to the straight thread of the canvas, in just the same way as with the lapel seam of a frock coat. The canvas is then adjusted to the form of the forepart, by the insertion of puffs and the taking out of Vs. The finish of the linings must also be arranged in keeping with a full dress garment for an Officer, which means that in most cases the lining would either be quilted or creased and stitched. The braiding of the sleeve and collar is not such a difficult matter as was formerly the case, but it will be found an advantage to have the sleeve seam sewn and pressed open before any braiding is attempted. Whatever the pattern of braiding to be followed, care should be taken to have it as correct as possible, when putting on braid or cord, special care must be taken not to get it on short. For pressing gold lace the iron used should be moderately cool, a piece of cloth should be put over the lace to be pressed, and a piece of lining put on top of the cloth. The iron may then be placed in the position desired, and allowed to stand for some little while; in this way the lace may be successfully pressed. When collar-facings are used, great care must be used to avoid soiling them, a caution which is very necessary, seeing so many of them are of a very light colour. We have not yet referred to the finish at the waist, but it should be borne in mind that the waist is to be made to fit closely. It is customary to put a waist-belt and clasp on the inside, the colour harmonising with the lining. When