Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide Part 13.djvu/17

14 found necessary in the majority of cases; square a line down from J and hollow the side body ½ inch at S, and the forepart 1 inch at T. This makes 1½ inches of suppression taken out of the underarm seam. Now measure up to the waist from H to Q, R to S and T to U to the ½ waist measure plus 1 inch. Square a line across from V to X and hollow the waist seam ½ inch at W. Add on ¾ inch for the button holes, but cut the button side to the breast line and sew on the button stand.

Draw line from X to V straight, measure down from X to *Z one twelfth of the seat plus 1 inch and draw line V to AA at right angles to V Z, add on ¾ inch of round at the back, and get the spring of the front by measuring down from V to Y one-twelfth of the seat minus 1 inch, draw line from X to BB at right angles to *Y. It will be seen that the left edge is not so advanced as the right edge.

The extra width of the button stand necessitates the extra width of skirt on the right side, hollow waist seam $1/4$ inch and complete as diagram.

We give the illustration of the back skirt, which is cut separately. Draw line from H to CC, make H to Q 2 inches. CC to DD 2½ inches add on ½ inch for seams above H Q, and allow ½ inch for side pleat beyond Q. DD.

Military Sleeves are pitched at the top of side seam behind and ¾ inch above the level of scye in front. The sleeve must of course be made to fit the scye. Draw line O to J, O to A is the width of scye, which may be found by deducting the width of the back from ¼ to K. O to 1¼ is 1¼ inches always, 1¼ to C is the size of the top scye between the two pitches, and found by measuring from D to C and M to forearm pitch. O to B is ½ the distance from 1¼ to C. Add on ¾ inch of round at L and complete sleeve head as illustrated. Measure off the length of sleeve to elbow and cuff, make the width of cuff from F to H ¼ of the breast and hollow it at the forearm from F to G 1 inch. Form I to to K is made about $1/6$ of the breast. J to I may be made 1½ inches of the run of the cuff can be found by squaring at H K. The underside sleeve is found by measuring around the bottom of the scye from K J to D, and measure across from A to D of sleeve. A to E is about ⅓ of 1¼ D, the underside sleeve may be drawn by these points, continue down from D to H and complete sleeve as shown. This sleeve applies to all ordinary garments.

Corpulent figures vary from the normal, particularly in the difference of proportion of the shoulders to the breast and waist measures, or, in other words, when a figure begins to develop corpulency the size of the shoulders does not increase in the same ratio as the breast and waist.

The development is as 1 inch at the breast to ¾ inch at the shoulders. If I take military tunic to the 48 breast and 48 waist we may be able to learn something by working it out, especially