Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide Part 13.djvu/15

12 six loops of gold chain gimp with caps and drops, fastened with gold work olivets, on each back seam a double line of the same gimp forming three eyes at the top, passing under a netted cap at the waist and terminating with an Austrian knot right to the bottom of the skirt, a tracing of gold braid all round the gimp, and Austrian knot of gold chain gimp is placed on each sleeve, reaching up to 8 inches from the bottom of the cuffs; the skirt is rounded off in the front and closed behind, and lined with black; shoulder cords of plaited gold chain gimp lined with blue, a small button at the top. The collar is of blue except for the 13th which is white, and the 3rd, which is red, there is a ¾ inch gold lace on top and down end of front collar. Gold chain gimp on the collar seam

Draw Line 1 G, make 1 to O 1 inch from O to F, depth of scye as taken on customer, O to G depth of scye as taken on customer.

O to E is ½ depth of scye plus ½ inch, square line across from 1 E F G, from O to E ½ depth of scye plus ½ inch, square lines across from 1 E F G. This must be done quite straight as the back is taken out on the crease. From 1 to A is $1/undefined$ of the neck measure plus ¼ inch, and from this point square up to B $1/undefined$ of the breast plus 1 inch.

From B mark out to C, from ¾ inch to 1 inch, and by these points shape back scye from C to D, and shoulder seam from C to A, and back neck from O to A. Draw line from D to G and hollow the side seam of back at I about ¾ inch, the width of the back from H to Q is made equal to one eighteenth of the breast, thus 2 inches for a 36 size

From Q to R is 2 inches, the waist suppression taken out of a Tunic being rather more than for an ordinary coat, for the reason that it is held very close to the waist by the aid of the belt, use point D as a pivot and sweep from Q to V, and so get the length of the side body at the back. Make point I a pivot and sweep forward from point. ¼ inch above D as shown; to find top of side body take out ⅛ inch at top an draw side seam of side body, as from D I R to V, from point ¼ to J, is ¼ of the breast from point ¼ to L is ½ chest measure plus 2½ inches, from L to K is across chest measure as taken on customer; there are some, however who prefer to find the front of scye by measuring across from 1 to K ⅔ of the breast measure. We now proceed to find the neck point by sweeping from K in the direction of N by the front shoulder measure, less the width of back neck from O to A, add 1 inch to this quantity and sweep again, making point L a pivot and where these two segments intersect each other locate the neck point. Now measure the distance from ¼ to O S, deducting