Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide Part 13.djvu/10

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The system described in the following pages is one that is especially adapted to the production of military garments, as may be gathered from the fact that it has been adopted by the authorities at Pimlico, for the instruction of those that pass through the cutting school, with a view of becoming master tailors, and is also used in some of the best military houses in the West End. It is based on the principles of direct measurement, which, in our opinion, is the safest to use for all kinds of customers, and especially so for those who are at all disproportionate, The measures may be taken with accuracy and speed after a very little practice, and in order to make the principle of these measurements plane we have prepared the accompanying figures: are as follows:— Chest, waist, hips, depth of scye, length to waist, full length, width across back, continue to elbow, continue to cuff, neck, front shoulder,over shoulder, across chest, and height of neck. The only measures we need specially refer to, are the depth of scye, the front shoulder, and over shoulder and the cross chest.

To find the scye, make a mark or put in a pin on the centre of back level with the bottom of scye; there are various methods of obtaining this, (1) Take the square, bring it up to the armpit,make a mark at the back scye, now remove the square, place it across the back level with this mark and so get point desired. (2) Place tape over neck, saddle fashion, bring it back under the arms to centre of back, see that it is level and so obtain mark. Either method will produce good results. Measure from nape of neck A, Fig. 1, to B.

—Measure from A, Fig. 1, by D to E, which is level of bottom of scye in front of arm.

—Measure from B, Fig. 1, over shoulder at C to E, Fig. 1.

—Measure from F, Fig. 2, to front of scye on opposite side G.

Height of neck measures from A. Fig 1, by H, Fig. 2, to a point anywhere about the region of 1, note the quantity, fix the tape and measure up to the collar seam at J.

The other measurements are taken as usual.

An average scale of measurements for the proportionate figure is as follows:—

Here is the scale used at Pimlico:—

The latter is based on the assumption that the military figure is decidedly erect. This is undoubtedly the fact with the rank and file, but those who who are constantly engaged in the military trade for officers assure me that in the majority of cases there is only the slightest variation in the attitude or form of the British Officer from the well-built English gentleman.

The following useful hints have been issued by the War Office on the

Articles of uniform liable to be moth eaten should be unfolded at intervals and well beaten