Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide 1898 Edition Part 1.djvu/9

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They are as follows:-1. The shoulder joint, where the top of arm bone, collar bone, and shoulder blade meet; 2. Each side of the Elbow; 3. Each side of the wrist; 4. The spine from top to bottom; 5. the hip bone; 6. The top of thigh bone, or hip joint; 7. the joint of knee; 8. The knee cap; 9. The shin bone, and others which are not necessary for the tailor to deal with. These will prove of great interest to the student, showing him that whatever the size of the individual these parts remain the same, and that when one part of the body is not in proportion to the other part the allowance must not be made at those parts where the bones come so near the surface as in the above instances, and consequently form the best starting points on which to base a system.

The inner dotted lines on these figures show the amount of muscle, in addition to which there is a thin layer of fat as well as the skin. Before we leave this subject there are one or two points worthy of our attention and study in

As a knowledge of their actions enables us to know the possible from the impossible. A joint is formed by the junction of two bones, the extremities of which are perfectly adapted to each other, and every perfect joint consists of five parts, each of which has its function to perform. It is not our intention to treat with each part separately, as such would be beyond the application of anatomy to tailoring, but when we have to deal with the various kinds of joints, we have a subject of great interest to the tailor. There are

The gliding joints which twist upon each other; they are composed of small, square bones, forming arches, the simplest form of which is found in eels and snakes; they are found in the back bone, the arch of the foot and wrist. The next is the hinge, or swing joint, which moves to and fro, but has no side motion, the simplest illustration of which is the hinge of a door which moves only two ways, to and fro, swinging; these are usually the second and third joints of each member, thus, the second and third joints of the leg would be the knee and ankle; the second of the arm is the elbow; the second and third knuckles of the fingers and toes. If for the sake of illustration, you try the second joint of the finger you will find it can only bend backwards and forwards; there is no sideways bend from the knuckle; all movements of that kind must come from the first joint, viz. the ball and socket, or universal joint which permits great freedom of movement in fact, moving all ways. They are mostly found at the commencement of a member, as at the shoulder, which is slightly limited or restricted in some of its movements; the wrist, which is a complication of the ball and socket and gliding joints; the knuckles at the roots of the fingers which enable the fingers to spread out; the roots of toes &c. If the reader will experiment with the various members of his own body he will readily fix this in his memory. As an illustration of the use of a knowledge of the movements of the various joints, we may take that of a figure on horseback; it is a common belief that the knee bends inwards, so as to cling to the horse, hence many systems, have the centre line shifted 1, $1 1/2$, 2 inches further from the front of fly line to produce this style of trousers; now, a knowledge such as we are treating shows such a movement to be impossible; the outward movement, to allow of the horse between the legs, comes from the hip joint, which is of the ball and socket kind, whilst the only movement the knee is capable of is the same as an ordinary hinge; hence it will be seen the correct way to open the legs of a pair of trousers to make them follow the the figure is to alter the angle at which legs join the body, still letting the centre line start from the same spot. By this method the legs are kept straight, and the feet are made much more open than the knees, which has been proved by practical experience to be correct.

These are some of the practical lessons to be obtained from a study of the human anatomy; they are we think, very important ones, and should be remembered, as they help us very materially in dealing with special garments and abnormalities such as the